12 Step Planet: Bratislava

How do I get there?
Ryanair operates a regular service to Bratislava’s Letisko MR Stefanik airport, which is 9km north-east of the city centre. Bus 61 departs every 10-15 minutes and brings you to the central station for a mere 70¢.

When should I go?
Bratislava has a continental climate. Summer temperatures can be as high as the mid-30s while in winter they can dip as low as minus 20. The city is known for its magnificent Christmas markets and New Year celebrations. If you're an arts buff, the Summer Cultural Festival runs from late June to late September.

What are the touristy things to do?
Ramble around the historic centre and soak up the sights of the Korzo (the pedestrian section of the Old Town). Enjoy a beer in the architectural splendor of Old Town Square. Climb to the top of St.Michael’s Gate and enjoy its commanding views. Visit Bratislava Castle, seat of Slovakian kings and queens over the centuries, for a regal fix.

Anything else?
Take a bus to Devin Castle, situated at the confluence of the Moravia and Danube rivers. This former border outpost of the Roman Empire dates back to 5000 BC. The ruins and their surroundings provide a fascinating insight into life over the ages.

What about eating?
Slovak cuisine is traditionally meaty and heavy. The national dish is a mixture of halusky (potato dumplings) with bryndza (a sheep milk cheese) to which are added fried onions. The traditional autumnal dish of husacina (stone-oven roast goose) served with burciak (young wine) should be road tested if you're there in season. If all that sounds a bit too much, international cuisine – mostly pizza and pasta – is widespread and very reasonably priced too.

What should I avoid?
Bratislava has become a magnet for marauding stag parties so watch out for beer-swilling louts who frequent the tackier disco bars.

Where can I stay?
As Bratislava has grown in popularity so have the accommodation options. There are chain hotels at the pricier end of the scale, but there's better value to be had in the smaller hotels outside the centre. The Communist landmark that is Hotel Kyjev, just five minutes walk from the historical area, offers basic double rooms from around €50 per night.

How much to get tanked?
Beer in Bratislava costs about €1.50 a pint. Be warned that prices can creep up in the more touristy areas. The Old Town is bursting with beer halls known for their local brews and cheap drafts. The area near the castle at Beblaveho attracts a mix of visitors and locals.
There are two kinds of beer you can typically order in a Slovak pub, svetlé or tmavé — light or dark. Light beer is somewhat akin to a Pilsner, with a slightly bitter taste. Dark beers are sweeter.

What should I bring home?
Slovak wine – a real gem is Tokaj, a very sweet, intense white wine. The Tokaj wine region is primarily in Hungary but some of the smaller towns are in Slovakia near the border. It’s a bit more expensive than most other Slovak wines (due to the arduous production process), costing around €10 for a 50 cl bottle. You could also throw in a bottle of Borovicka – the traditional Slovak juniper brandy – for a bit of variety.

Why should I go?
Unlike many other European capitals this city has a wonderfully laid-back atmosphere.

Why should I not go?
As a weekend break location this city is superb but after a few days you may have ticked everything on your 'to do' list. For a week’s holiday perhaps looks elsewhere. Or you could pop on the train to Vienna – only an hour away with tickets just €13.
Then there are those marauding stag parties...

What’s my challenge?
If you’re a lady, try not to feel too disheartened by the hordes of stunning local women. Street vendors actualy sell t-shirts emblazoned with ‘I Love Slovak Girls’. As for the guys – try to not choke on your own drool or incur the wrath or your significant other.