12 Step Planet - Kenya

Where exactly is it?
Kenya is situated in East Africa and borders a number of countries, amongst them Ethiopia to the north, Uganda to the west and Tanzania to the south. The equator roughly splits the country in two. Kenya also boasts a tropical Indian Ocean coastline.
How do I get there?
As a result of increased demands for safari tourism, the Kenyan capital Nairobi is serviced by regular flights from all over Europe. Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is an eight hour flight from London, with British Airways and Virgin Atlantic offering competitive fares all year round. For those looking to bypass hectic Nairobi, coastal Mombasa is also an option, with scheduled flights also available from Heathrow and Gatwick.
What language do they speak?
The state language is Swahili, although English is widely spoken in urban areas and along the tourist trail. In fact, a form of pidgin English called Sheng is widely spoken by the country’s youth. Furthermore, something in the region of sixty tribal languages are still in use. Tribalism is a hugely important part of Kenyan society and each dialect is a significant status symbol for its people.
What is the local beer like?
The beer du jour is most definitely Tusker, a hugely popular pale lager that dominates the Kenyan beer market. In fact, one of the country’s most successful football teams is called Tusker FC, owned by East African Breweries and sporting the famous elephant logo on the team jerseys.
Other drinks?
Poverty and the exorbitant price of beer (due to heavy tax penalties) ensure that Kenya has a thriving moonshine cottage industry. Chang’aa is the favourite poison, a paint-stripper strength spirit, fermented from maize and sorghum. Consume at your peril! Dodgy producers have been known to add such fine ingredients as anti-freeze to speed up the fermentation process! Kenyan whiskies do exist, amongst them Safari, Top Secret and Hunter’s Choice, but are nothing to write home about.
What is the transport like?
Getting around this spectacularly beautiful country is sometimes a challenge in itself. The country’s main Nairobi to Mombasa highway has a reasonable asphalt surface, but the many arteries leading to the National Parks are often dusty, crater filled affairs. The vast majority of people visiting Kenya are there to experience its awe-inspiring wildlife and travel about in comfortable eight-to-14 seater minibuses. From time to time, your bones will be well and truly rattled by the barely navigable roads, but you’ll probably barely notice as you take it all in... Truthfully, a bumpy road is a small price to pay for such a privilege.
What’s the food like?
Kenyan food is a product of the country’s long colonial history. The Portuguese arrived here in the late 1400s and brought with them tropical fruit and vegetables from newly discovered Brazil. Later, the British introduced Indian slaves for labour and before long the tradition of curry making had become widespread. Also, some of the most significant indigenous tribes, such as the Turkana and Maasai cattle herders, rely almost exclusively on beef as a food source. Therefore, Kenyan food is a combination of a number of historical influences. The food is simple with normally a meat or fish option, beside a combination of vegetables, such as irio, which is a mash of corn, beans and potatoes common amongst the Kikuyu people.
What’s the nightlife like?
The Nairobi nightlife is famed throughout Africa, and with good reason. Most clubs don’t get going until after midnight and don’t finish until the following morning. However, it’s important to have your wits about you as Kenya’s capital hasn’t been nicknamed Nairobbery for nothing. The people are unbelievably gracious and hospitable, but crippling levels of urban poverty mean that pickpocketing is an inevitability. However, don’t let that deter you too much. Nairobi’s mixed bag of clubs offer everything from traditional African music, East African pop to Bollywood theme nights! Outside of the capital and Mombasa, nightlife is far more limited, but it’s unlikely to be high on your priority list when on safari.
Why should I go?
It’s simple, safari! Kenya boasts over 30 national parks and nature reserves, and some of the planet’s most breathtaking landscapes, teeming with abundant wildlife. A dawn encounter with a herd of elephants or giraffes, moving gracefully across the savannah, is a sight you’ll never forget. Most of the safari trips begin in the early morning, just when many of the great mammals begin to wake. Picture it, you’re driving along a red dust-covered roadway, flanked by acacia trees, spotting cheetahs chasing gazelle or wildebeest grazing. Does it really get any better? For that authentic Out of Africa experience, flying in a light aircraft into one of the main reserves, such as Masai Mara is simply breathtaking. This vast open landscape is one of nature’s true treasures.
What are the touristy things to do?
Kenya has more to offer than the safari delights of its great national parks. The tropical mountainous equatorial regions of Mount Kenya and its environs are home to coffee and tea plantations, originally settled by British colonists. This epic landscape of sweeping, lush valleys is well worth a visit and is amongst the world’s most fertile regions. For something entirely different, head east to the island of Lamu, off Kenya’s Indian Ocean coast. The island’s chief settlement, Lamu Old Town, is a Unesco World Heritage Site, and a mixture of Swahili, Muslim and Portuguese cultures. It’s really like stepping back in time, as no motorised vehicles are permitted on the island. Donkeys carry supplies away from the old harbour in woven baskets and traditional Dhow sailing boats dot the horizon, fishing close to the many shallow mangrove areas. For a touch of something utterly different, Lamu is hard to beat.
Anything else?
A visit to the waters of Lake Nakuru, in the central lowlands, guarantees some of the most arresting scenery in African. Thousands of pink flamingos are attracted by the rich source of freshwater algae and it’s possible to venture pretty close. You’ll feel like you’re smack bang in the middle of a David Attenborough documentary!
Anything to avoid?
While a visit to a Maasai herder village is a worthwhile experience, their handicraft markets can sometimes leave a bad taste! After a fascinating introduction to their nomadic lifestyle comes the hard sell and you can often feel very pressurised into buying large amounts of trinkets from multiple vendors. This practice seems to be unique to the Maasai, a renowned business people, and in many ways, who could blame them for maximising their resources? Think about it, if you were in their position would you do any different? It won’t spoil your experience, but forewarned is forearmed. Just be firm and polite and be prepared to say ‘no thank you’ occasionally.
What should I bring home?
Kenya is renowned for its craft industry and a wide range of hand-crafted gift items are available nationwide. Remember, handicrafts are a vital component of the local economy and purchasing beautiful soapstone or wood carving helps to keep Kenyans in regular employment. For the cost of nothing more than a few beers, you’ll have a permanent memory of your visit to Africa’s ‘Garden of Eden’.
When should I go?
Kenya’s equatorial climate means that it is a year-round destination. However, to avoid the rainy season, January to March is probably best. For those who wish to witness the world-renowned wildebeest migration from Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park to Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve, June to September is the approximate window.
What’s my challenge?
Turn your back on the constant hustle and bustle of the rat race and lose yourself in Africa time! The laidback, uncomplicated lifestyle will soon reduce your heart rate and raise the spirits. Engage with the people, as friendly and fascinating as you will meet anywhere, and soak up the majesty of Kenya’s natural delights.
What’s the currency?
The local currency is the Kenyan Shilling (KES). However, all major world currencies are readily accepted.
Something to remember...
Kenya is overall a very peaceful and welcoming country, but the ethnic violence of ’08 exposed the tribal tensions that still exist. Voting patterns in national elections breaks down along tribal lines and therefore political corruption and intimidation is rife. Before making that dream trip to this amazing land, it’s worth doing some background reading on Kenya’s tribal landscape. This is an ancient land and although tribes have lived in mixed communities for generations, occasionally old feuds can surface.
Eamonn Seoige