12 Step Planet: Toledo

How do I get there?
Toledo lies 70 kilometres south of Madrid and is about 45 minutes by Avant train from Atocha railway station in the centre of the Spanish capital. It’s an extremely comfortable non-stop journey through mostly flat farmland for about €15 return. Toledo train station lies outside the small medieval city, but a taxi trip to the town centre only costs a few euro. Aer Lingus has daily flights to Madrid, sometimes with unbeatable offers from €9.99 down to zero!

When should I go?
Toledo is located high above the surrounding Castille-La Mancha countryside. So it’s not as sweltering at the height of summer as nearby Madrid and Cordoba.

What’s the touristy thing you have to do?
Walk at least part of the Don Quixote trail. Quixote’s creator Miguel de Cervantes was born in the nearby village of Alcalá de Henares. The trail begins in the narrow, cobbled streets of the old part of Toledo and follows the path that the eccentric fictional Quixote and his squire rode some 400 years ago. Along the route you’ll see windmills, town squares, castles and other architectural attractions that, combined with the natural beauty of the Spanish countryside, evoke scenes from the famous novel.

What should I avoid?
Watch out for well-dressed con-artists claiming to be customs officials on the lookout for fake notes when they themselves are probably the most counterfeit articles you’re likely to meet. If approached, ask for identification and then suggest a walk to the nearest police station.

How much to get tanked?
Drinkable bottles of local wine can be had for €2, while most imported lagers are never higher than Irish prices. Spanish lager is even cheaper and perfectly enjoyable. Hotels are the most expensive places to imbibe, so it’s best to find a pleasant outdoor venue where you can enjoy your drink while soaking up the ambiance. Of course, getting messily tanked might not meet with local approval in what is a World Heritage City, so moderation might be a safer option.

What about eating?
Toledo is full of excellent eating houses offering good value. For example, Palacios, a restaurant in the centre of the city, can give you a fine three-course meal for two, plus a bottle of local wine, for €20! You can find more expensive places, but none will be as wallet-slaying as the more pretentious eating houses that infest our own major cities.

Where can I stay?
There are several modest but serviceable hotels in the small city. You could try the Sercotel Pintor El Greco, set in a quiet cul-de-sac on the edge of the town. It’s basic but very personable. The fact that El Greco himself lived for a time next door is an added attraction.

What should I get to bring home?
Restrictive security regulations mean that a souvenir sword made from the famous Toledo steel is probably a non-starter, but you’ll find fine examples of local lacemaking or leather goods that should please the folks at home.

Why should I go?
Toledo will give you a city experience yet it’s small enough for you to be able to see it all in a few days. The narrow streets are redolent with history and are sure to transport you back in time. And yet the modern world is never too far away. There’s little traffic, and few big chain stores. The people are patient and polite with a positive attitude.

Why should I not go?
If you need a raucous nightlife and big shopping malls you might be better heading for Dundrum.

What’s my challenge?
Cross the Puente de San Martin and walk above the river Tajo that flows beneath the outer walls of the city. Apart from the freshness of the open Spanish countryside, this will afford you widescreen views of Toledo. From key vantage points you can pick out the impressive buildings that dot the city, including the famous cathedral, the Museo de Santa Cruz and the Alcazar.