As a schoolgirl in the late ’70s buying my weekly Hot Press in the local shop, I would never have thought I’d end up a future scribe for the it. Hot Press had a fanzine newspaper feel and gave you the scoop on punk and happening-tonight-near-you local gigs: it was the coolest mag you could buy in Ireland. In the mid-’80s, after seeing Bowie live in Paris and firing off a review of the gig to the editor, I got a positive response and my nascent Gonzo was kick-started. Freelancing on music, film, books and travel for a number of publications, travel was essentially my favourite subject. That was partly what prompted a subsequent move to the United Nations Peacekeeping Press Section. For that job I lived and worked in Guatemala, Ethiopia, Eritrea and Afghanistan. This may not be a standard travel piece, as a couple of these places are not accessible due to political turmoil. But here goes…

Guatemala

There is a searing beauty to Guatemala. Nothing prepares you for its mountain starkness, the “cloud forests” on Sierra Madre peaks, the hot smothering air of the Mayan jungle and the power of the volcanoes. After arrival in the capital, visit the Popul Vul, Ixchel and Miraflores museums, but then leave the city. For volcanoes and beauty, go to Lake Atitlán in the centre of the country, which has three of them overlooking its waters. You can tramp up volcano slopes, even power glide around their craters or putter around the lake in boats that leave from the town of Panajachél, which has a good range of hotels and restaurants. Antigua is a classic colonial town less than an hour away, with beautiful Spanish courtyards and a relaxed touristy vibe.

If you want to take the path less travelled, however, you can roam the wild cowboy territory of Zacápa in the East or the North’s mysterious forests with their ancient Mayan pyramids deep within. Try the western coffee-growing areas, with towns like “Quetzaltenango”, “Huehuetenango”, “Chichicastanango” and that’s just for starters.

Everywhere, you’ll find the blend of local culture ranging from the stately, often crumbling buildings of the Spanish to the micro-industries of the indigenous communities, who produce intricate art and crafts, including fine rugs and fabric woven with local materials and natural dyes. Care needs to be taken when traveling in Guatemala, between banditos (actually real), random military and your ever-present unfriendly drug traffickers. Risk it as a guerrilla traveller on the “chicken buses” to get around, or take private bus companies. The former are ancient, colourfully-painted American school rigs that frequently break down. The latter are more expensive and have no chickens, but do have air conditioning. This is a good thing.

Try to read up on the country a little before you go. Guatemala is a beautiful place, but in many areas the aware traveller will sense an almost palpable echo of its blood-soaked past. Not as obvious as Conrad’s evil river mists, but hidden beneath its tourist veneer nevertheless. The deeply repressive history of Guatemala needs to be respected.

Flights: Return from Dublin averages between €720 to €850 and Visa information can be obtained from the Guatemalan Embassy in London: reinounido.minex.gob.gt/Home/Home.aspx.

Eritrea

Micaela Wrong, in her seminal study of modern Eritrea, I Didn’t Do It For You, notes how, if you mention this extraordinary nation, people tend to say, “Where?”

Today, Eritrea remains largely a mystery due to the current policies of one of the world’s most repressive régimes. There are multiple advisories against travel there online, it may be difficult to get a visa to go, and after that most movement outside the capital is by permission only. Bear in mind that today, Eritreans are second only to Syrians in those risking their lives to cross the Mediterrean to seek asylum in Europe.

It’s the newest nation in Africa and at the time of its independence from Ethiopia in 1992, it was considered to be the country most likely to succeed on that continent. Its revolutionary fervour, combined with innovative health care, education and gender policies along with a loyal and energetic population almost guaranteed its success. Its leader, however, never called post-revolutionary elections.

Historically, Eritrea is thought to be the legendary “Land of Punt” referred to in ancient Eygptian and biblical texts. The legendary Queen of Sheba is said to have originated from here, and the “lost city of Adulis” on its Red Sea coast was the portal of the African interior to onward trading in Asia Minor and the Silk Road. Today, it has some of the most amazing Art Deco architecture in the world (see Sami Sallinen’s book, Asmara Beloved) and I would recommend it for travel in a heartbeat.

Eritrea is perplexing, haunting. Its rich heritage, unspoilt beauty and coastal location make it potentially an exciting travel destination. If you ever get there, blow a kiss from me.

Flights: Return from Dublin averages between €1,200 to €1,800 and Visa information can be obtained from the Eritrean Embassy in London, 96 White Lion StreetLondon N1 9PF, United Kingdom. Tel: (44) 20 7713 0096.

Ethiopia

Ethiopia, far from the images of hunger and desert that still tend to come to the minds of some, is a land of massive diversity. The only country in Africa never colonised, its history is one of the most interesting of the continent. In the north, you’ll find fairytale castles (Gondar), buried churches (Lalibela), and Axum, seat of the ancient Axumite empire – where the Arc of the Covenant is said to be concealed. Harar in the Eastern Highlands is the fourth holiest of Muslim cities (it’s also the location of Rimbaud’s final days).

The Great Rift Valley and the Simien mountain range provide great trekking and climbing. Here, you’ll find plant and animal species that don’t exist anywhere else on the planet, as well as some of the most gorgeous scenery you can imagine. The country’s lakes, such as Lake Tana with its monastic island communities or Lake Langano in the Oromia region, offer marvellous lodges and small hotels. For something wildly different, you could head for the “Danakil” area in the north-east, a former sea turned salt beds that is the hottest place on earth and the lowest land point in Africa.

With most Ethiopians well-versed if not fluent in English, travel is not difficult. The tourism infrastructure is nascent, but this rough and readiness often makes the trip more interesting.

For the last ten months, Ethiopia has been in an official State of Emergency. This came about originally as a measure by the Ethiopian government to crush ongoing protests against its repression of the Oromo ethnic group and since then it’s estimated by Human Rights Watch that over 20,000 people have been detained and hundreds killed. While this may not affect the international traveller, it’s advisable to check out the situation before you go.

Avoid travel in July and August as it’s rainy season and roads are often impassable, but you could plan to travel for the Ethiopian New Year (11th September). The festival of Meskel (27th September), meanwhile, would be an opportunity to experience Ethiopian at its most joyous.

Flights: Ethiopian Airlines, Emirates and Turkish Airlines all fly to Addis Ababa from Dublin, with the lowest price round trip for September 2017, with the average tickets costing around €550.

Visas from the Ethiopian Embassy in Dublin: ethiopianembassy.ie

Afghanistan

Visually, culturally and historically, it is an understatement to say that Afghanistan is one of the most extraordinary and worthwhile countries in the world to visit. The beautiful Himalayan mountain range is omni-present, there are ancient lost cities and giant Buddha ghosts along the silk road, and the Band-e Amir National Park, with its six evanescent lakes, is considered by anyone who’s been there to be an unsung wonder of the world.

Surprise Shangri-La valleys tuck into the mountain folds of the north, and in the south, Kandahar is still one of the most stunning rugged landscapes you can find. But you’re not likely to see a recent photo of it without a soldier, tank or bomb crater featuring in it. And Afghanistan is not likely to be a tourist destination for some time yet.

The bottom line is that after decades of war, Afghanistan is worse than ever in terms of the personal safety of its citizens, let alone travellers. Even just the recent bombings and funeral killings over the last few weeks make it impossible to recommend it as a travel destination. You can still apply for a Visa, however, to the Afghan Embassy in London, should you be interested in true adventure. Flights: to Kabul from Dublin cost between €850 and €1,400. Visas, see: afghanistanembassy.org.uk/