We’ve all wished at some time on our travels abroad that somebody was around to help with directions. The solution may be closer at hand and no further away than Limerick. This, explains Mary Dundon, the communications executive for Limerick City, is because Limerick is the only city in the country which has introduced Street Ambassadors this summer. She says: “Our 10 guides will work throughout the summer to help visitors find places of historical interest as well as the best places to eat, shop and have fun.”
One hopes other cities, both at home and abroad, will follow suit. Dundon also emphasises that, despite an image to the contrary, Limerick now has one of the lowest crime rates in the country, and that Gardai are believed to be winning the war on crime.
Of equal significance is the re-emergence of Limerick as a vibrant music centre, thanks in no small part to the contributions of Dolan’s Warehouse (one of the best venues for rock music in Ireland), the music education input of Michael O’Suilleabhain at the Irish World Music Centre, HMV Records, and the hive of activity that is the University of Limerick.
The successes of both Lyric FM and Limerick Live 95 FM show that serious radio programming can be done outside Dublin. That such a respected music industry practitioner as Alan McEvoy of Live Wire, whose client list over the years has included The Cranberries, Boyzone, Ronan Keating, Shayne Ward and Take That, has opted to base his international operation in the city is another major vote of confidence in Limerick.
Limerick has undergone a major makeover over the past five years, with the most exciting of the new developments clustered around the river Shannon.
As Irish Times environment editor Frank McDonald observes: “New apartment blocks have sprung up along the quays and these have now been capped by two iconic buildings - the Clarion Hotel and Riverpoint, a glazed elliptical office tower that rises to 15 storeys and is the third tallest building in the Republic. Standing like a sentinel on the city side of the Shannon Bridge, Riverpoint has given Limerick its `wow’ factor.”
And it’s not just at home that the revival is having an impact. The Lonely Planet Guide to Ireland 2006 refers to Limerick as having “lifted itself with some spirit in recent times”, adding that “central streets buzz with life and a busy shopping scene. Fine museums and galleries, and a thriving restaurant and pub-club culture, have enhanced Limerick’s already warm heart”.
That warm heart has been made even warmer by recent events. Limerick, as one of the hotbeds of Irish rugby, stole the headlines in May when Munster won the Heineken European Cup. They still talk about the day 10,000 people assembled to worship before the big screen in Limerick city centre to watch the final. Footage of the supporters was beamed to Cardiff’s Millennium Stadium at critical points during the game. On the following day, the city went into celebration overdrive and people expressed their loyalty, passion and support for the win when more than 40,000 supporters braved the hail and rain to welcome the conquering team home.
But that was not all that happened in May, as the Riverfest attracted over 40,000 visitors to Limerick over the May Bank Holiday Weekend, with the World BBQ cook-off featuring teams representing all of 50 countries. The Red Bull Flugtag on the June Bank Holiday weekend was another major success, attracting more than 50,000 visitors in the city.
Improvements to the Republic’s roads network has put most of Ireland within easy reach for a short break. To that end, Limerick boasts many excellent places to stay.
One of the best is the Old Quarter Pub, Café and Lodge. Established in 1995, it is conveniently placed just off the city’s main thoroughfare, O’Connell Street, with easy access to major roads, and is only 20 minutes from Shannon Airport. In addition, Limerick’s top pubs, shops and tourist attractions are only a short stroll away. The pub has capacity for 200 people, and the Art Deco-themed bar is a popular attraction. Located on a pedestrian street it is also perfect for casual outdoor socialising. At night the pub transforms into one of Limerick’s hot spots with a lively atmosphere, and there’s a genorous cocktail and late night menu too.
With comfortable couches and an eloquent design, the Old Quarter cafe is a perfect meeting point for a coffee and a pastry. It offers a fine range of flavoured coffees and herbal teas, and both bar and café are wheelchair friendly. There’s jazz on weekend afternoons too. Recently refurbished, the Old Quarter Lodge is a contemporary experience with 26 bright, stylish bedrooms. Facilities and personalised service have been given equal priority to ensure guests enjoy the highest standards. There’s a bright versatile conference centre which can cater for all business needs. The lodge is three-star Bord Failte approved and has also been awarded a three Diamond AA rating.
All rooms are individually designed, with original artwork throughout by the acclaimed artist Clare deLacy Hartigan. All of the bedrooms are equipped with direct-dial telephone, hairdryer, tea/coffee making facilities, showers in all bedrooms and satellite TV.
There’s 24-hour room service (sandwiches and bottled beers), a Bureau de Change, corporate and group rates, weekend parties, overnight car parking at special rates and a guest lounge with colourful modern décor and widescreen TV, DVD and state-of-the-art surround sound stereo system.
For further information about the Old Quarter call 061-317095.
Shopping used to be a necessity and a chore. Now, for many, it's their top recreational activity. So a visit to Vudusoul’s two floors in Patrick Street is a pleasurable experience that mixes style, soul and rock 'n' roll.
The store is exclusively dedicated to ladies' clothing, footwear and accessories, and among the vast stocks you will find such top brands as Attrattivo, Freesoul, Grab, Henleys, Irregular Choice, Killah, Miss Sixty, Phard, Ringspun, Religion, Superdry, Uttam and many more. Indeed, many Limerick fashionistas have been making this store their primary shopping source for trendy wear with an inviting stock ranging from cool and casual to urban and funky to downright glamorous. During the store’s short two years, it has sponsored various fashion and club events, and highlights include the Miss Limerick Pageant, and turns by the legendary turntablist David Holmes and Andy Smith of Portishead.
Vudusoul has also featured on TG4’s Passion Fashion, several national papers and U magazine. Vudusoul recently launched a new Bebo page where their full range of stock can be viewed and ordered. The store also offers many exclusives, giveaways, invites to shows, parties and more.
While the resurgence of music in Ireland is a nationwide phenomenon, one of the centres where it’s been most noticeable is Limerick. In HMV, they have a record store that carries a truly mind-boggling range of stock. As one experienced local musician put it to me: “years ago we’d nearly have to go to Dublin whenever we wanted to look for anything that wasn’t in the charts. Now you can hear a record on the radio or maybe read a review in Hot Press and you’re almost certain to find that record in HMV. I think that has had a major impact on local musicians, so that some of our best bands now have influences from all over the place rather than just a narrow range of the obvious stuff, and that’s very healthy for both the bands and the fans."
Another sign of a vibrant music city is the range of music on offer from a variety of venues, from Dolan’s Warehouse to The Boatclub, Limerick Race Course, which, although a comparatively new venue, has already played host to Hothouse Flowers and Jerry Fish, with Picture House soon to stop by. Bunker 4 in Aubars is Limerick’s trendy basement club with a strong loyal following built up over the past few years, with funky tunes and beats to rival any of the top clubs in Dublin.
Dolan’s Warehouse is now one of the top venues in the country, offering an impressive procession of top international acts, hot Irish artists and the best of the local scene. Its impact is felt beyond the walls of Limerick too, by such key Irish acts as Shaz Oye, who has fond memories of playing Upstairs at Dolans on Dock Road. As she told me, “When you’ve spent up to five hours getting to a venue, there’s nothing as nice as hearing, 'Would you like a cup of tea?' the minute you walk in the door. That’s exactly what they do in Dolan’s.”
It’s a small thing, but an indication of Dolan’s attention to detail and their interest in creating the best conditions for the musician. At heart they are music lovers and that comes through in the way they do business. From Valerie Dolan through to the bar staff, they take a genuine interest in what you’re doing and will do whatever they can to support artists.
“Upstairs at Dolan’s is one of the best venues in Ireland,” says Oye. “Alongside Spirit Store in Dundalk, it’s my favourite venue. They have built a space that works, and put time and money into getting it right.
Oye also says that good sound is the true mark of a great venue: “I want my audience to hear me at my best, and Dolan’s has one of the best sound systems and, in Sean Harrold, one of the best sound engineers around. Ireland is saturated with live music at the moment and trying to book a tour as an independent can be a nightmare, particularly when some venues won’t even return your calls. That would never happen with Dolan’s.”
She’s not the only one to wax lyrical about the venue. Christy Moore, who’s played them all and then some, reckons it’s one of the best venues in which he’s performed. Mick Dolan recalls some of the top acts from overseas who’ve graced the venue. “There are far too many to remember," he says. "We’ve had so many, from Spiritualised to Ian Brown, Maximo Park and Super Furry Animals to top Irish acts like Damien Rice, Bob Geldof and Ash,” he recalls.
The two rooms in Dolan’s Warehouse hold 200 and 400, making for intimacy as well as atmosphere, and its presence has been a major boost to the local music community. Of the top local acts, Mick has great things to say about Giveamanakick and he is eagerly awaiting the release of the new album by Eoin Coughlan.
“Eoin used to be with Nomos and he has a great line-up on his album, people like Damien Dempsey, Ann Scott and Gemma Hayes. I’m really looking forward to it."
Coming attractions include legendary US folk singer Arlo Guthrie (son of Woody), Maximo Park (back again!), The Fureys and Goldie Lookin’ Chain.
The active music scene in Limerick has spawned a new generation of local bands, including the afore-mentioned Giveamanakick, Middle Class Housewives and Windings, and solo acts of the calibre of the excellently named Vertigo Smith and Kiernan, all of whim have played the Boatclub at Sarsfield Bridge, which is Mark Geary’s favourite venue on the planet.
According to Ross O’Donoghue, who handles promotions for the Boatclub through Gigtown Music: “The Limerick music scene is the best it’s been for years, and not far behind Dublin and Cork. The Boatclub offers a wide range of music three or four nights a week, from hip-hop to reggae, classic rock, acoustic nights, indie rock, and so on. We can hold about 120. In the very near future we’ll have Fred from Cork, who have a great live show, as well as Veneer, Nicolette and Cowboy X among others. Things are really good here.”
Limerick Live 95 FM have also played their part in stirring up the musical stew in the area. Mike Knighton's weekly Sunday night slot Green And Live has allotted studio space to acts like Roper, Monoband and Maximo Park. Knightson and his assistant Karen McGrath give one the distinct impression that music in Limerick is in safe pairs of hands.
Mojo’s is a three-floor café/bar in Limerick’s thriving Patrick Street. It has fast become one of Limerick's premier night spots, whether your preference is for drinking champagne or enjoying some quality food, or, if you prefer, shaking your booty to the in-house DJ's tasty selection of funk, soul, chart and r’n’b tunes. Mojo’s opens for breakfast, coffee and light snacks every Monday to Saturday from 9am, and lunch starts at noon. Evening food is served until 9pm. The Bar is open seven nights a week. The Mezzanine on the first floor can cater for up to 40 people and the Marilyn Bar on the second floor can comfortably handle up to 120 people, with full catering facilities available in both.
Mojo’s can also cater for smaller parties in the café bar on the ground floor, but the place is so popular that booking early is the best bet. Wireless Internet access is available in the café bar, making it an attractive place for that quiet business meeting. For all enquiries on Mojo facilities, contact their sales office 061 410898, [email protected].
So Limerick is alive, and back on the trail for visitors who want to enjoy the pleasures of a real Irish city that knows how to work and play. Perhaps the ubiquitous RTE broadcaster Ryan Tubridy best summed up the transformation undergone by the city when he said, “We always talk about Limerick’s image, but to be honest with you that is so boring, that story is so dead as far as I am concerned - it is well past its sell by date.” He’s right, you know.