- Culture
- 29 Jan 24
Mother Earth: A Food Happening, and its sister Mother Earth concert, proved to be an unforgettable opener to this year's Nothing Compares Brigid 1500 celebrations – presented by Hot Press and Kildare County Council...
Built in 1743, Leixlip's Wonderful Barn has played various roles throughout its life – ranging from a dovecote to a granary. This time around, the unique structure was the focal point of 2024's Brigid 1500 celebrations, as families, foodies, and music lovers descended upon the scenic Castletown Estate for an unforgettable celebration of Mother Earth.
The main events for the morning and afternoon took place in the elegantly decorated marquee, which hosted a series of panels featuring celebrated women in the food industry. Educational and entertaining throughout, the first group to take the stage consisted of author Dr Karen Ward, chef at Michelin Green-starred Apricity in London Chantelle Nicholson, the only woman in the UK professionally hand-forging culinary knives Holly Loftus, and Edizemi Onilenla, founder of Mama Shee – bringing rich Nigerian cuisine to Irish shelves and tastebuds.
Moderated by food writer Dee Laffan, Dr Ward gave a lesson in Brigid’s story and her cultural significance in Kildare, while the remaining members of the panel each shared their unique, often challenging, and ultimately inspiring journeys to success in the food industry.
The second panel highlighted the strides that still need to be taken to create a more equal food industry. Hosted by journalist & co-founder of Pocket Forests, Catherine Cleary, she was joined by Kai's chef patron Jess Murphy, 4 Hands Food Studio founder Rose Green, Bech-Baily founder (and former Aimsir front-of-house) Majken Bech-Bailey, and Sinead Moran co-owner Gleann Buí Farm .
Each shared their uphill battles of being a woman in a men’s game, from militaristic kitchens to the male dominated agriculture industry – using their personal triumphs as markers for greater inclusivity in the food business.
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Addressing the topic Local Is Best – But Can We Make It Work? was the last group of the day. Food consultant and journalist Ali Dunworth led a conversation between TV cook Aisling Larkin, Julia Lobster Truck owner Julia Hemingway, co-founder of The Lost Valley Dairy and Creamery in Darcie Mayland, and artisanal salumist Jane Russell, who discussed the challenges facing local businesses and sustainability within an increasingly expanding industry.
It wasn’t all talk – with a series of highly informative demonstrations taking place between panels. Audiences feasted their eyes on showcases of Irish grown pulses, homemade griddle scones and jam, cheese-making and lobster barbequing – with those who were lucky enough getting the chance to taste the end results.
All the chatter and waft of grilling crustaceans stirred up a hunger amongst punters and thankfully, some of Ireland’s most lauded food trucks were on hand to satisfy any cravings. There was a mouth-watering selection of gastronomic delights on offer, from Mama Shee’s hearty Nigerian cuisine, through Bob's Pizzas (made in a proper pizza oven!) to Little Catch’s thoroughly exceptional seafood offerings, with vintage coffee van Beanery well-placed to provide the refreshments and sweet treats to wash it all down.
Eating - as enjoyable as it may be - wasn't the only activity on offer. Rising stars Zoe Clarke, Sarah Fitz and Sherena Leanna provided the sweet soundtrack to the free festivities taking place throughout the day, as families engaged in face-painting, basket weaving, and taking in the rich history of the site on guided tours.
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The arena transformed as day became night. The Wonderful Barn lived up to its name, lighting up the dark January evening and beckoning fans for a truly special evening of musical performance.
Like the food industry trailblazers who graced the stage earlier, the musicians were as diverse as they were impressive – coming from all walks of life and disciplines to become some of the most celebrated Irish talents today.
First up in the sold-out marquee was Tolü Makay, who stopped any pre-gig mumbling in its tracks with a chilling delivery of Tony Allen’s ‘Atuwaba’. Her vocal control was mesmeric, even getting the audience to provide a chorus harmony for her improvised scales and trills. Sticking to the theme of the day, Makay offered a performance of her unreleased song ‘Earth’, which poignantly reflected a deep dismay at the current social and environmental state of the planet.
Following the Nigerian-born singer was music royalty in Róisín O. As comfortable behind a piano as she is with a guitar in her hands – we were treated to another unreleased (and thus far unnamed) track. Penned for her mother (fellow renowned artist Mary Black), it was a wonderfully candid, emotionally-charged number. Despite her fears expressed in advance, the Dubliner just about held it together during a fine performance - though the same couldn’t be said for most onlookers.
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It wouldn’t be an evening celebrating female songsmiths without a nod to one of the great icons. Róisín belted out an energetic cover of Joni Mitchell’s ‘Big Yellow Taxi’, which felt particularly suitable for its lyrics pointing out capitalism's nature-destroying tendencies: "They paved paradise," Roisin sang, "And put up a parking lot."
Chart-topping former Saturdays member Una Healy was up next. Keeping the standard of musicianship unbelievably high, the crowd was treated to the gorgeous solo single (originally recorded with Sam Palladio) 'Stay My Love', ‘Wild Grasses’ and a version of Sting's classic, ‘Fields of Gold’ - underlining nature’s never-ending role as a source of inspiration. The implicit message being: we need to ensure that it stays that way...
Gemma Hayes followed, instantly winning over the audience with her charm and humour. Joined by the talented Anne Scott on ukulele, the duo played Hayes’s marvellous 'Back of My Hand', from her acclaimed debut Night On My Side, followed by latest single ‘Feed the Flames’, putting the Tipperary singer’s ethereal vocals on full blast. They also paid homage to the “ultimate mamma” Kate Bush, with a rocking rendition of the latter's iconic hit ‘Cloudbusting'.
Closing the bill was the indomitable Denise Chaila, who has mastered the art of speaking openly and honestly to the audience. "I am not going to sing 'Chaila' she said, apologising – and then inspiring with an intro which made it clear that – on a night like this, it was all about being truthful to how she now feels about herself, her life and her work.
The bass could be felt in Celbridge town, with a dynamic shift away from the hitherto acoustic sounds. It didn’t take much for the audience to be drawn to her stage presence, evident in the sonorous rebounds of “Pam Grier” between performer and onlookers, after she asked the audience to help her with the chorus...
Ample parental warning was provided, as Chalia introduced ‘Porn Song’, which she referred to as her "genesis". The number was immense, detailing men whose conceptions of female sexuality have been misconstrued from pornography, and the message that she wasn’t going to put with that. It was indeed a powerhouse performance...
Things weren't finished just yet. MC Claire Beck – who had a great night – rallied the crowd to chant ‘one more tune’, as the performers regrouped on stage to form a Mother Earth Supergroup.
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Channelling the spirit of Brigid, the ensemble delivered a breathtaking version of ‘What A Wonderful World’, and with the audience duly joining in, it was an apt conclusion to a day showcasing the power, strength and independence of women in Ireland - and of the planet which is home to us all.
• Free activities at The Wonderful Barn, Leixlip were supported by Hot Press, Kildare County Council and Intel, whose campus is in Leixlip, Co. Kildare.