12 Step Planet: Belgrade

Where exactly is it?
The ‘White City’ is both the largest urban centre and capital of Serbia with a population in excess of 1.5 million. It’s strategically positioned at the convergence of the Danube and Sava rivers where the flatlands of the Carpathian Basin meet the Balkans. The area now known as Belgrade has been populated since Palaeolithic times. The city has long since been an important trading point between Western and Eastern cultures.
How do I get there?
There are no direct flights from Dublin to the Serbian capital, but there’s plenty of one-stop options. Swiss Air offer a reasonably priced
route via-Zurich and Lufthansa flights to Frankfurt connect onwards to Belgrade. Air France also operate a daily service from Paris Charles de Gaulle.
What language do they speak?
The state language is Serbian and it’s what is mostly spoken in both the city and surrounding regions. Serbian is a standard variation of Serbo-Croatian and in reality the differences between the Serbian, Croat and Bosnian dialects are minimal. English is also widely spoken, especially by the younger generation.
What’s the local beer like?
Serbian beer isn’t well known internationally. Fear not, there are plenty of excellent brews to sample. Pale lager dominates the market. Jelen Privo is the most popular local brew. The showcase for the domestic industry is the annual Belgrade Beer Fest, which takes place every August and has grown into one of the region’s most popular outdoor events with live acts performing each night.
Other drinks?
No visit to Belgrade or anywhere in Serbia would be complete without sampling their beloved Rakija. Rakija is a spirit made from fermented fruit and varies in strength from 40% to the home-produced varieties which can reach a paint-stripping 75%! Rakija comes in a wide variety of flavours, the most popular being slivovitz, made from fermented plums and the pear brandy viljamovka. The Serbian wine industry has undergone something of a renaissance in the past decade. As well as producing standard varieties, a number of indigenous grapes are harvested, most notably the red prokupac, which dates back to the
middle ages.
What’s the transport like?
It’s a doddle getting about Belgrade due to its highly integrated public transport network. However, try and avoid rush-hour traffic, which often brings the White City grinding to a halt! The city’s transport grid comprises of an extensive number of bus, tram and trolleybus routes. Work is ongoing on the Belgrade metro, with the first line scheduled to begin operation in 2017. Belgrade is also well connected by rail to other major cities in the Balkan region and the national highway network makes onward travel to neighbouring capitals such as Budapest, Sarajevo and Zagreb stress-free. If time is on your side, why not travel by cruise ship from the Port of Belgrade along the course of the Danube to another great destination?
What’s the food like?
Serbian cuisine has been widely influenced by its geographical proximity to a number of strong culinary traditions including Mediterranean, Greek, Turkish and Hungarian. Its national dishes are broadly similar to those of the other former Yugoslav republics and centuries under the rule of various empires has left a lasting mark on dietary habits. Soups are extremely popular in Serbia, especially fish broth, known as riblja corba. As with Hungary, goulash is a popular stew-type dish and pasulj is a widely consumed meat and bean soup dish. Arguably the most popular meal is the grilled minced lamb dish cevapcici. Dessert is an integral part of Serbian meal times and there’s plenty of choice for the sweet-toothed. The nut and honey-filled pastry baklava is amongst the most popular. Serbian pies, known locally as pita, come flavoured with everything from cheese to nuts.
What’s the nightlife like?
These people certainly know how to kick back! Belgrade’s nightlife is a match for anything in Europe. Every weekend, revellers from the regions and even neighbouring countries travel to the Serbian capital to experience its booming scene. There are countless bars, from basement bunkers to riverside hotspots and the prices aren’t too shabby. In the dark post-war days Belgrade’s renowned clubbing scene took off, as clever promoters improvised with venues and locations, resulting in the plethora of cutting edge late-night joints that survive to this day. The city’s major clubs don’t really have dancefloors. Instead, punters boogie the night away next to their table of drinks. With the dark days of NATO bombings consigned to the past, Belgrade is challenging Berlin and even Ibiza as the continent’s premier party destination. Skadarlija is the place to go for late bars and restaurants, while the riverside becomes the main attraction for clubbers during the summer months as the floating venues click into gear. More and more top international acts are adding Belgrade to their itineraries. Novi Sad’s Exit Festival, two hours away from Belgrade by high-speed train, has built a reputation as one of the best.
Why should I go?
Belgrade is a city rich in history. Founded in the fourth century by a tribe of Celts, it has a long and chequered past. It was a Roman city, a key stronghold under the Ottoman Empire, capital of independent Serbia, Yugoslavia and now Serbia again. It has endured wars, bombings and oppressive ideologies, but has recovered to become one of the most happening destinations in Europe. Cast aside your doubts and make a trip. You won’t be disappointed.
What are the touristy things
to do?
Foreboding Kalemegdan Fortress is certainly worth a visit. It dates back to the fourth century and has been occupied by the Romans and many invading tribes. It also has probably the best views of the majestic Danube. The House of Flowers is the mausoleum dedicated to former Yugoslav leader Marshal Tito. The nearby memorial museum gives a fascinating insight into this unique character, who somehow managed to unite the Yugoslav Federation and maintain relations with both the USA and USSR during the Cold War. The Old Bohemian Quarter of Skadarlija isn’t only the place to party. It’s also the home of the city’s long-established artistic community. Belgrade has three impressive palaces – Beli Dvor, Stari Dvor and Novi Dvor. The ornate Beli Dvor, or ‘White Palace’, was built in the ‘30s in the style of the French court of Louis XV and is probably the pick. The city is also home to an impressive array of city parks where citizens go to relax, especially during the oppressive summer heat.
Anything else?
Belgrade can boast one of the world’s fiercest sporting rivalries between Red Star Belgrade, European champions in 1991, and Partizan. The ‘Eternal Derby’ has its roots in the days of the former Yugoslavia when Red Star represented the Interior Ministry and Partizan the Yugoslav People’s Army. Fireworks, chanting, loud brass music and burning of opposition flags are par for the course during one of these games. A spectacle not to be missed!
Anything to avoid?
Beware of unlicensed taxis. If you need to get across the city, best book a cab from the hotel front-desk or call a reputable company. The city streets are home to some unscrupulous cabbies only too happy to bring you on back roads to Belgrade and charge colossal amounts. Also, don’t get a cab during morning rush-hour. It will take forever!
What should I bring home?
Traditional Serbian folk costumes are beautifully ornate and widely available. The embroidered sleeveless jacket known as a ‘jelek’ and handcrafted shoes called ‘opanci’ will certainly catch the eye. Serbian folk music is played on a wide range of instruments, the frula and dvojnice to name but two. You might also fancy kickstarting the homecoming party Serbian style with a bottle
of rakija.
When should I go?
Spring is probably the best time to visit. Due to its inland location, it can become unbearably hot during summer, when temperatures regularly hit forty degrees.
What’s my challenge?
The Serbian capital’s image was badly tainted by the Yugoslav Wars, but it’s quickly recovering. Though the ancient city may not possess the endless opulence of Paris or the jaw-dropping architecture of Berlin, it still tops the league table in one important category - partying. It’s the weekend every night in Belgrade and there’s an endless supply of quirky bars and clubs to explore. Good value food and drink, plus numerous worthwhile historical sights, make Belgrade an excellent choice for a weekend getaway.
What’s the currency?
The local currency is the Serbian Dinar (RSD).
Something to remember...
As recently as 1999, NATO bombed the White City causing widespread damage, ostensibly in reaction to Serbian aggression towards Kosovo. The former Yugoslavia had already crumbled amidst the bloodiest conflict witnessed in Europe since World War II. The scars of the Bosnian War and the Croatian War of Independence are slowly healing. However, it will take time. This is recent history and it’s advisable to think before launching into an ill-informed (or even well-informed) view of the conflict within the earshot of locals.