12 Step Planet: Cleveland

Where exactly is it?
Cleveland is the largest city in the Midwestern US state of Ohio. The ‘Forest City’ is along the shoreline of Lake Erie in Ohio’s northeast. The Canadian shore of Lake Erie lies 54 miles to the northwest and the neighbouring US state of Pennsylvania is approximately 60 miles to the west. Cleveland is also twinned with our very own Achill Island!

How do I get there?
The easiest route is to fly Aer Lingus from Dublin, connecting via Chicago’s O’Hare Airport. The short hop from the ‘Windy City’ is operated by United Airlines. If you’ve a little time to kill, the road trip from Chicago to Cleveland is just over 350 miles and there are some interesting stop-offs along the way including Toledo and the world renowned, 140-year-old Cedar Point amusement park, situated on the shores of Lake Erie, in Sandusky, Ohio.

What language do they speak?
English is of course the most widely used language in the ‘Sixth City’. Cleveland also has a rich ethnic community, due to the large number of European immigrants that flocked here during the 19th century. An area now known as ‘Slavic Village’ was populated by Polish and Czech settlers and large numbers of Italian, Irish, German, Chinese and Ukrainian people have made an indelible mark on the city’s history. Today, the most widely used, non-English languages are Spanish and Chinese, spoken by approximately seven and one percent of the city’s population respectively.

What is the local beer like?
While all the major US beer brands are widely available, it’s not hard to find an interesting, locally brewed beer in downtown Cleveland. Ohio has a thriving microbrew industry and each October; ‘Cleveland Beer Week’ celebrates the state’s artisan producers. The Great Lakes Brewing Company is one of the leading lights and fans of the black stuff should sample some of their wonderful barrel-aged stout. If pale ale is more to your liking, you’ll be well impressed by the award-winning Head Hunter IPA, voted best IPA produced in the United States. So, tickle your taste buds with some excellent local tipples.

Other drinks?
The state of Ohio has a burgeoning wine sector. A combination of fertile soil and ideal weather conditions make The ‘Buckeye State’ one of the best wine producing areas in the US. The Lake Erie coastal region and Ohio River valley have large concentrations of fine vineyards. Since the 1850’s Ohio has produced a range of award-winning wines, with Riesling, Pinot Grigio and Cabernet Sauvignon among the favoured grapes.

What is the transport like?
Cleveland is a major hub for US manufacturing and as a result has an efficient transport network connecting the city by the shore with key urban centres in the US and Canada. In fact, Cleveland was awarded the prize in 2007 for having the best commuter transit service in the US. The RTA, known locally as ‘The Rapid’, provides a light-rail service connecting important areas of the downtown and outer suburbs. A comprehensive bus network is also in operation and onward nationwide bus connections are provided by the major companies, Greyhound and Megabus. Interstate Highways 71, 77, 90 exit at Cleveland and the city is also serviced by the Amtrak national rail service, sitting at practically the half-way point along the Chicago to Washington DC route. The Port of Cleveland moves freight goods and raw materials to other industrial ports on Lake Erie and a limited ferry service is also available.

What’s the food like?
Clevelanders have a diet typical of Midwestern Americans. Ohio, Pennsylvania and many of the surrounding states were settled by immigrants from Central and Eastern Europe and their culinary influence is felt to this day. The food is hearty and inexpensive. Polish, Italian, Hungarian and other Eastern European dishes are particularly prominent. Polish staples such as kielbasa sausage, pierogi dumplings and stuffed cabbage are commonly available in the city’s diners and restaurants, as are goulash and paprikash. A ‘Polish Boy’ is a distinctive Cleveland sandwich stuffed with sliced Kielbasa, coleslaw, dressing and French fries. Italian restaurants serving all the classic pasta and pizza dishes are plentiful.

What’s the nightlife like?
Cleveland has a great live music tradition and remains an essential stop-off for bands big-and-small criss-crossing the continent. The House Of Blues venue is part of the well known franchise, but the intimate Agora Theatre is undoubtedly the city’s most revered concert venue, having helped launch the career of many a fledgling act since it first opened its doors in 1966. Fat Fish Blue, a Cajun restaurant in the downtown area is famed for its blues and roots music sessions. The outdoor Jacob’s Pavilion is the place to be for major gigs throughout the summer, while fans of classical music and old-school touring rock acts should catch a bus to the open-air, Blossom Music Centre in Cuyahoga Falls, about 20 miles to the south. For a late drink and a boogie, check out ‘The Flats’ a bustling entertainment area located on the banks of the Cuyahoga River. Shooters (not Hooters!), an old-style music bar, located right by the Cuyahoga River is worth a look. The Flats is the city’s hot-spot on weekends, packed with students and kids of all ages in its many pubs and clubs. The Warehouse District is where you need to be for some serious clubbing!

Why should I go?
Cleveland may lack the glamour of other Midwestern cities, like Chicago or Detroit, but it has a charm all of its own. Despite its relatively large size, Cleveland has a laidback and friendly atmosphere more associated with small-town communities. The city’s multi-ethnic background accounts for the variety of interesting neighbourhoods, styles of architecture and diverse cuisine on offer. The celebrated ‘Emerald Necklace’ metro-park system ensures that vast tracks of Cleveland’s rural parkland will survive for generations to come.

What are the touristy things to do?
A short distance from the downtown, the gigantic, glass-framed, pyramid-like expanse of the ‘Rock & Roll Hall of Fame’ is certainly worth a visit. This multi-level complex is crammed full of countless memorabilia and fascinating exhibitions. It chronicles the birth of rock ‘n’ roll, heavily influenced by the blues and gospel music of the ‘Deep South’, from the early days of Sun Studios and Chess Records right up to the present. Practically next door, the Great Lakes Science Center is a fascinating, interactive museum, suitable for children of all ages. Whether it’s the ‘miracle’ of the moon-landing or understanding weather patterns, it explains the science behind all through wonderfully creative, fun-filled displays. The city’s Museum of Natural History is one of America’s finest, housing a vast collection, ranging from prehistoric mammal skeletons to extensive mineralogy collections, including samples of moon rock. If that doesn’t float your boat, then check out the nearby Cleveland Planetarium. The Planetarium’s mind-bending show, explaining the immeasurable enormity of the universe, will have you feeling very small and insignificant. Clevelanders are sports crazy! A visit to Progressive Field, home of their beloved Cleveland Indians baseball team, is a must. The city is home to a number of fascinating ethnic neighbourhoods, especially atmospheric ‘Little Italy’.

Anything else?
One of the city’s most celebrated institutions is the Cleveland Orchestra, widely acknowledged as one of the world’s finest musical ensembles. Try and get your hands on a ticket for a performance at the Severance Hall. You won’t be disappointed!

Anything to avoid?
Avoid a run-in with the local cops! Cleveland’s police department are very keen on mobile speed traps, so be warned if you plan on hiring some wheels. The downtown area has notoriously low speed limits and the local PD is only too happy to punish unsuspecting drivers.

What should I bring home?
There’s plenty of music-related tat to be had at the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame! Most of the merchandise consists of terribly gaudy T-shirts and mugs, but the book and CD section is certainly worth a browse...

When should I go?
The hot weather may deter some, but summer’s when it all happens in Cleveland! The city is alive with multiple festivals, celebrating everything from Russian and Italian heritage to the raucous Warehouse District Street Festival.

What’s my challenge?
Take it easy! Enjoy the laidback lifestyle and friendly atmosphere of the ‘Forest City’. Make sure to sample the wealth of affordable ethnic cuisine and excellent local wines.

What’s the currency?
The United States Dollar (USD$)

Something to remember...
Cleveland’s Cuyahoga River is infamous for catching fire in 1968, an incident that kick-started mainstream environmental awareness in the US. The river’s pollution was caused by decades of heavy industry and thankfully drastic action was taken, eventually resulting in the passing of the Clean Water Act.