12 Step Planet - Cuba

Where exactly is it?
Cuba is the most populated island in the Caribbean, with eleven million people. It sits due south of the US State of Florida and to the east of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, at the mouth of the Gulf. Off its southern coast is Jamaica.

How do I get there?
The main hub, Havana, can be reached from a number of European airports. Madrid offers daily flights with a number of carriers, with Air Comet normally the most competitively priced. Due to the country’s socialist/communist history, Russia’s Aeroflot schedules frequent flights from the UK and Brussels to Havana’s José Marti airport.

What language do they speak?
The spoken language is Spanish, a result of colonisation in the early sixteenth century. The native Taino and Ciboney people refused to convert to Christianity and became enslaved and subsequently wiped out by strains of European disease. The colonists also brought thousands of African slaves to the island to work in agriculture and mining, with Spanish becoming the state language with immediate effect.

What is the local beer like?
Hatuey from the eastern city of Santiago de Cuba, and once brewed by the Bacardi family, is a rather bitter brew, while the light tasting Crista lager is amongst the most widely available. Your best bet is Bucanero Fuerte, a strong tasting, golden beer.

Other drinks?
Cuba is famed for its legendary rum, arguably the finest in the world. The key figure in the industry’s development is Don Facundo Bacardi Masso, who set up his famous distillery in Santiago in 1862. Made from sugarcane, an abundant crop in Cuba, rum is the spirit that fuels the country’s clubs and dancehalls. The most famous brand is Havana Club, which is available in a number of formats, based on ageing. Cuban cocktails are celebrated the world over, from the lime zest & minty fresh taste of Mojito to the original rum ‘n coke of Cuba Libre.

What is the transport like?
Transport standards in Cuba vary hugely, so be prepared! The premium bus service in Havana and to the towns beyond is provided by Busse Viázul, which operates a selection of air-conditioned coaches at reasonably priced fares in US dollars. 'Camiones privados' are a budget option in vehicles that vary from converted trucks to modified vans, while the hotch-potch of ‘yank tanks’ offer a taxi service in pre-revolution, classic '50s American gas guzzlers. One mode of transport definitely not for the faint hearted is by train. The epic trans-Cuban journey from Havana to Santiago takes between 11 and 17 hours, depending on how many dollars you’re willing to part with. A first-class option on the ‘fast train’ will set you back about fifty bucks and ‘only‘ take 12 hours!

What’s the food like?
Food isn’t really Cuba’s strong point. However, patience will eventually deliver a dish worthy of consumption. Due to economic poverty, farmers trade their quality food produce with neighbouring countries, often leading to a scarcity of supply at home. The state controlled ‘Casa Particular’ B&B network is the best bet for quality dining. The most common offerings are rice and bean-based dishes, with fried chicken (‘pollo frito’). Strangely enough, seafood is not common, with the exception of lobster, which is endangered due to over-fishing.

What’s the nightlife like?
The heady nightlife of legend is today something of a Cuban myth. Undeniably, the natives know how to party, but finding that elusive side-street salsa club of reknown is usually quite the adventure! Unfortunately, the growth of street prostitution ensures it’s often difficult to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy some local musicians. Scams abound, boxes of ‘Cohiba’ cigars for half-nothing, with many claiming to know how to get to the fictitious ‘Buena Vista Social Club’. However, when you do find the Holy Grail, it’s often well worth the effort. Probably the best bet is house parties. Ordinary Cubans don’t have money to spend in clubs and instead, drink, salsa and conga at home. The rum is often homemade, delivering a serious kick!

Why should I go?
There is nowhere quite like Cuba and if you’ve half a mind to go, then go soon! The country’s unique dynamic is as a result of Fidel Castro’s socialist policies. However, with the great hero of the revolution on his last legs, rapid change is imminent. The ramshackle grandeur of Old Havana’s colonial buildings, the sight of old chevvies chugging around the city streets and dapper old men toking on over-sized cigars is wonderful. The pace of life here is unbelievably slow, as far away from the western world as it gets. The countryside is lush and rich in history and despite the state control of practically everything, Cubans are affable, friendly people. If ever socialism didn’t suit a country it’s Cuba!

What are the touristy things to do?
The UNESCO World Heritage site of Old Havana alone justifies the trip. This breathtaking blend of classic architecture and atmosphere will be a highlight. Havana’s Partagas cigar factory is an intimate insight into Cuban life, while the city’s Plaza De La Revolucion is where Fidel addresses the masses, against a backdrop image of revolutionary hero Che Guevara. Santiago de Cuba’s seaside citadel of San Pedro de la Roca del Morro is well worth a visit, as is a trip to Baracoa’s rainforest region, home to some of the Caribbean’s finest coffee plantations.

Anything else?
The real reason to travel to Cuba is to experience a way of life that exists nowhere else on the planet. Their outmoded form of socialism and nearly 50-year-long US embargo has virtually resulted in time standing still. Travelling to Cuba and staying with locals in ‘Casa Particular’ is a rewarding experience, bringing tourists in contact with these most welcoming people. Despite decades of economic hardship, Cubans are relentlessly upbeat. They recognise the limitations of the socialist model but are loathe to openly criticise the regime.

Anything to avoid?
Avoid the north coast resort town of Varadero like the plague! Its five-star hotel complexes are as far removed from the reality of Cuban life as it gets. If sitting around poolside, sipping cocktails is your wont, then just go to Spain. Also, avoid package ‘entertainment’ nights, which amount to nothing more than a low- budget Butlin’s-style family cabaret.

What should I bring home?
That’s an easy one! Cram as many boxes as possible of prized cigars and bottles of mature rum into your suitcase! The world’s best cigarros, such as Monte Cristo and Cohiba, will cost you a King’s ransom anywhere else.

When should I go?
The best time to travel is during the dry season, which runs from November to April. The weather is far less oppressive, making getting about much more comfortable. The stinking hot humidity of Cuba’s hurricane season, from June to October, should be given a wide berth!

What’s my challenge?
Immerse yourself in the unique atmosphere of this peculiar country. Seek out its hidden nightlife of rum, salsa and bolero and mix freely with the locals, while keeping your eyes peeled for scams. Take a trip to the beach in a 60-year-old ‘yank tank’, but be prepared for multiple breakdowns and long delays. But, always remember, you’re in Cuba and nobody pays too much attention to the time!

What’s the currency?
Cuba actually operates with three different currencies. The official currency is the Cuban Peso (CUP) while the Convertible Peso (CUC) was introduced to stem the circulation of foreign currency. Essentially, the convertible mimics the US Dollar and is now the currency of choice for the tourist trade. However, despite these changes, the mighty dollar is still highly desirable.

Something to remember...
Never become openly frustrated by overly zealous hawkers looking to sell cigars, rum and all matter of services. Remember, Cubans have endured one of the most limiting regimes of our recent history. The state media is limited to printed propaganda and sterile TV, the internet is practically prohibited and foreign travel is not open to citizens, except those promoting Cuba at cultural or sporting events. Hundreds perish each year, trying desperately to reach their relatives in close-by Miami, Florida, often using home-made rafts. Despite all these limits to their freedoms, Cubans remain eternally optimistic and friendly people.
Eamonn Seoige