12 Step Planet: Detroit

Where exactly is it?

Detroit is the largest city in the state of Michigan and is situated in the Midwestern region of the United States. It’s separated from neighbouring Canada by the Detroit River, which acts as the international border between both countries, before eventually flowing into vast Lake Erie. In fact, the Canadian city of Windsor, Ontario lies only one mile away across the river.

How do I get there?

There are numerous direct flight options from the UK. US Airways run a scheduled service from London Gatwick to Detroit and Continental Airlines operate a similar service from Heathrow. Flight time is approx seven hours, 30 minutes.

What language do they speak?

English is obviously the first language for the overwhelming majority of ‘Motor City’s’ residents. There is a sizeable Arab population in Detroit that exceeds 30,000 and it is home to the Islamic Centre of America. There are minority populations of Mexican, Polish and Greek immigrants based in the metropolitan area.

What is the local beer like?

Michigan State is a beer-lover’s paradise. It’s sometimes referred to by connoisseurs as the ‘Great Beer State’ due to the impressive amount of award-winning microbreweries. The renowned Bell’s Brewery produces a wide variety of excellent tipples, including smooth brown ale and a fruity cherry stout. Founders Brewery, based in Grand Rapids, specialises in pale ale and a dark, velvety porter.

Other drinks?

The Michigan countryside has a long and proud tradition of cider production. The Dexter Cider Mill is the oldest and has been pressing apples for over a century. It’s one of over 100 companies producing varieties of the apple restorative. Whether you’re a fan of cloudy or clear, you’ll be spoiled for choice in Detroit.

What is the transport like?

Due to its proximity to nearby Canada, Detroit has been an important transport hub for centuries. Detroit has three international border crossings, connecting the city by both bridge and tunnel to neighbouring Ontario. Bus is the chief mode of transport in the city environs, while a light rail system known locally as the ‘People Mover’ operates in the downtown area. Onward travel from Detroit is via a number of interstate highways and Amtrak run a regular service to Chicago.

What’s the food like?

Cuisine in Detroit is a mish-mash of many influences. A popular local speciality is ‘Detroit Pizza’ which is a square, deep-dish creation that’s double-baked for extra crustiness. The American hot-dog obsession began in Detroit where a food company won a competition in 1959 to produce a quick ‘n’ easy snack-food for baseball games. The Greektown neighbourhood is renowned for Detroit-style versions of such classic dishes as souvlaki and moussaka.

What’s the nightlife like?

Despite its well-publicised social problems (30% of city residents live under the poverty line), Detroit retains its reputation as a good-time city, well stocked with excellent music bars and clubs. Motor City has a near unrivalled musical heritage, with celebrated natives such as Berry Gordy Jnr. keeping it at the cutting edge for almost 100 years. From the early days of the jazz movement through to Motown and techno, Detroit has always inspired innovation. The Hamtramck area offers a wide selection of bars with weekend blues, soul and rock bands. Check out the Harlequin Café on Agnes for the best in jazz, while techno addicts can get their fix at the State Theater on Woodward Avenue. If you fancy a gamble, the Greektown neighbourhood is home to high-end casinos and the old Downtown district simply heaves with no-frills bars. Detroit knows how to party!

Why should I go?

Detroit’s social troubles have made big news in recent years. Various documentaries — and to some extent, the film 8 Mile — highlighted the impact of vast unemployment and poor government policy on Detroit. As the motor industry contracted in the ‘70s, crime rapidly increased and soon crack and heroin had a severe grip on deprived neighbourhoods. However, like all great cities, Detroit has always risen from the ashes and its travails have inspired generations of great artists. While its struggles are far from over, there is a great sense of the possibilities there and no shortage of optimism for the future. Music is Detroit’s great gift to the world and it’s still possible to experience the manic energy that inspired everyone from Aretha Franklin and John Lee Hooker to the MC5s and Derrick May. As they say, great art is born out of struggle...

What are the touristy things to do?

There’s a lot to see in this city. For music lovers, a great place to start is the Motown Historical Museum on Grand Blvd, once HQ for the fabled record label. Take a walk through Studio A, where Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and The Supremes recorded many classics. Motor car aficionados should make a beeline to the Henry Ford Museum, which houses a vast collection of automobiles from the Model T to the actual limousine in which JFK was assassinated. The Detroit Historical Museum has a number of interactive exhibitions that detail the city’s history from humble beginnings as a fur trader settlement to the world’s leader in car manufacture. The Detroit Institute Of Arts houses a magnificent collection and important pieces by such luminaries as Picasso and Van Gogh. For a slice of true Americana, check out the Detroit Tigers baseball team at Comerica Park — or if NFL is your thing shout for the Lions at Ford Field. The gigantic Renaissance Centre is a symbol of Detroit’s rebirth and its rooftop observatory offers amazing views of the Great Lakes and the surrounding prairie lands.

Anything else?

If you’re partial to a night of theatre, you’ve come to the right place! Detroit’s Theatre District is second only in size to New York’s Broadway and hosts both major mainstream and fringe programmes. Woodward Avenue is the place to go and many of the city’s famed theatre palaces have been lovingly restored. The spectacular 90-year-old Fox Theater is probably the pick of the bunch.

Anything to avoid?

Despite huge efforts to regenerate the city, many parts of the Downtown area are unsafe at night. The city is widely regarded as America’s most dangerous, a direct result of crippling poverty and social deprivation. However, don’t let this deter you. Just as you would in any unfamiliar city, take advice from local people on where to walk and when to take a cab.

What should I bring home?

It’s got to be some rare vinyl! When are you going to get the opportunity to pick up original pressings of Aretha, Stevie or Juan Atkins? Motor City boasts an impressive array of well-stocked record shops, including a number of genre specific stores. If you don’t want to get stung on excess baggage, bring them along to the post office. They’ll ship those long-players home for a fraction of the cost.

When should I go?

It really depends on what floats your boat. The winter can be bitterly cold and summer hot and clammy! Car lovers will brave the plummeting temperatures and head to Detroit in January for the North American International Auto Show. This huge event showcases the global auto industry and attracts millions to the old city. The Detroit International Jazz Festival takes place over Labour Day weekend in early September.

What’s my challenge?

Open your mind to one of the most vibrant cities in the United States. For every tale of social unrest, there’s one of progress. Detroit is an almost unparalleled experience for students of music and the arts. Sample the jazz bars and techno clubs, catch a stage show in the Woodland’s or immerse yourself in bygone eras in any number of world-class museums. Detroit is a city with a story that’s well worth checking out.

What’s the currency?

The local currency is the US Dollar (USD).

Something to remember...

Detroit gets its name from the French word ‘détroit’, meaning strait. This refers to the city’s strategic position between the Great Lakes of Huron and Erie. As a result the Detroit River is one of the busiest waterways in the world. If you’ve a spare day at the end of your break it’s well worth a trip upriver.