12 Step Planet: hamburg

Where exactly is it?
Hamburg is in northern Germany on the banks of the River Elbe and the southern fringe of the Jutland peninsula. The city is an important transport hub and the third largest port in Europe, a short distance from the shores of the North and Baltic seas. Hamburg is Germany’s second largest city with almost two million inhabitants.
How do I get there?
Aer Lingus operate a direct service from Dublin to Hamburg four times a week. Flights depart every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.
What language do they speak?
The majority language is of course German. Locals speak a distinct dialect known as Hamborger Platt. English is widely spoken throughout the city and the thriving port ensures large populations of people from across Europe.
What is the local beer like?
Hamburg may not have the beer producing heritage of Munich, but it’s still Germany and therefore there’s plenty of good beer to be had! All the usual suspects are available, from the generic pils (pale lager) to the dark, strong bock and weissbier varieties. The city’s Bavaria-St. Pauli Brauerei brews the excellent Dübelsbrücker Dunkel dark lager and the widely consumed Astra Pilsner. Hamburg is also home to a number of brewpubs, with Brauhaus Hanseat amongst the better known. If you’re in the vicinity, drop in for a pint of Hanseaten Weisse, their top-notch wheat beer. Germany’s largest brewery group, Holsten, have a presence in the city, producing a range of beers including the strong and fine tasting Winterbock.
Other drinks?
This being Germany, schnapps is popular and widely available. For the uninitiated, schnapps is a strong, heady; colourless spirit, distilled from fermented fruit. It’s produced in a wide assortment of flavours, such as apple, plum, cherry and pear. Wine is also consumed
in large quantities, especially the world famous Riesling white variety from the Rhine region of western Germany.
What is the transport like?
Hamburg is an easy city to navigate and boasts a super-efficient transport system. In fact, it was the first city in the world to introduce a fully-integrated transit ticket, which covers all metropolitan bus, rail and ferry services. The underground U-Bahn network services the city centre and the S-Bahn transports commuters to the surrounding suburban towns. A comprehensive bus system is also in operation and ferries connect the docklands area with the city. Hamburg is intersected by four autobahn routes and uses a tunnel system designed to limit congestion in the downtown area. The city’s airport is the country’s oldest.
What’s the food like?
Cuisine in Hamburg is traditional and hearty. Fish is popular, especially plaice, which is fried in bacon fat and served with boiled vegetables. A local favourite is Aalsuppe, a soup made with a mixture of vegetables and herbs and labskaus, a brothy meat and fish based stew. The Hamburg and Schleswig-Holstein regions are famed for producing some of the best beef steaks in Europe. The celebrated hamburger can of course be traced back to the port city. The common, fried meat patty known locally as frikadelle , was brought by German immigrants to the US in the 19th century. The rest as they say is history...
What’s the nightlife like?
Hamburg’s hedonistic nightlife is legendary! The chief attraction is the world-famous Reeperbahn red-light district, situated in the liberal St. Pauli district. However, there’s much more to the area than neon lights and prostitution. The district surrounding the Reeperbahn houses an impressive array of pubs and venues, attracting a diverse crowd. Grosse Freiheit is the street to hit for music clubs and Spielbudenplatz is home to many of the city’s best late-night theatres. For a totally unique take on the art of ‘window shopping’, head to Herbertstrasse, the most exclusive street in the red-light area. However, women are often discouraged by police from entering this area. It’s a business, not a tourist attraction after all! Hamburg’s dotted with many super-hip bars and venues. From chilled-out jazz bars to pumping techno clubs, there’s something here for every mood and occasion.
Why should I go?
Hamburg is simply a joy. This thriving port-city has attracted a multicultural population and its atmosphere is one of tolerance, creativity and self-confidence. The huge Hafencity district regeneration project typifies all that is good about Hamburg. A vast disused area of the city port is been turned it into an ultra-modern residential neighbourhood and business district. Hamburg celebrates its storied past, whilst embracing the challenges of the future.
What are the touristy things to do?
Hamburg hasn’t received the nickname ‘Venice of the North’ for nothing. Canal-boat tours of the warehouse district and vast port area are amongst the most popular tourist attractions. Every year thousands flock to the neon-lights of the infamous Reeperbahn and revel in its late-night bars and clubs. The newly-completed Elbphilharmonie is amongst Hamburg’s most impressive sights, an über-modern concert hall built from the shell of a 19th century warehouse and incorporating a giant, glass wall. Tierpark Hagenbeck is a vast zoo complex, not dissimilar to Cork’s Fota Island, where elephants, tigers and other wild mammals live in massive green enclosures. The gigantic town hall or Rathaus is a baroque masterpiece and well-worth a visit. For a slice of German expressionist architecture, check out the Chilehaus. This impressive structure was built in the ‘20s and takes the shape of a giant ocean liner. For those with an interest in seafaring, don’t miss the vast International Maritime Museum, which boasts the world’s largest collection of marine artefacts.
Anything else?
Hamburg is home to an impressive list of odd-ball museums. For something a little different, take a trip to the Miniatur Wonderland, home to the world’s largest model railway. Also worth a visit is the Beatlemania Museum, which documents the Fab Four’s formative pre-1963 period gigging day-and-night in Germany’s second city.
Anything to avoid?
While the Reeperbahn can be a great fun, it’s also an easy place to get robbed! Avoid carrying large sums of cash or credit cards at night, as pickpockets prey on drunk, vulnerable tourists. Also, the main strip has become a mecca for
stag-nights, often best avoided. Satisfy your curiosity, have a look around and then head off and explore the city’s hidden gems.
What should I bring home?
Hamburg is a great place to shop, with numerous arcades and centres dotted all over the city. Fans of vintage clothing will certainly have a blast and maybe even find a bargain. If jewellery’s your thing and money’s no object, definitely pay a visit to the impressive Jungfernstieg complex. Like all German cities, Hamburg is a great place to buy rare and
collectable vinyl.
When should I go?
Hamburg is a busy destination year-round. However, to really experience the city in all its glory, take a trip during the summer months when festivals and outdoor activities abound. Temperatures never get too hot and the city is alive with activity. The winter off-season can be much cheaper for flights and hotels, but be prepared for chilly weather, strong winds and even heavy snow!
What’s my challenge?
Arrive in Hamburg with an open mind. There’s much more to this city than the red-lights of the Reeperbahn! Marvel at the city’s wonderful modernist architecture and fascinating maritime heritage. Sample classic Hamburg cuisine and visit its eclectic museums and galleries. Hamburg is a city that celebrates diversity and promotes cultural tolerance.
What’s the currency?
The local currency is the Euro.
Something to remember...
Hamburg was devastated by allied bombing raids during World War II. The mission was code-named ‘Operation Gomorrah’ by the RAF and was amongst the most destructive campaigns of the period. On July 23, 1943, persistent bombing and prevailing winds created a vast firestorm which destroyed entire neighbourhoods, killing thousands of civilians. Nearly a million people evacuated the city in the days after the July 23 attack.