12 Step Planet: Ho Chi Minh City

Where exactly is it?
Ho Chi Minh is the largest city in Vietnam and is located in the south of the country. It sits on the banks of the Saigon River, 60km inland from the South China Sea. Once referred to as the ‘Paris of the Orient’, Ho Chi Minh is amongst Asia’s most attractive cities. The municipality consists of a large urban sprawl, populated by over nine million residents. The city, once known as Saigon, now takes its name from the Marxist revolutionary and leader of North Vietnam during the Vietnam war. The city was renamed in 1975, directly after the communist takeover.
How do I get there?
There are a number of competitively-priced options departing year-round from London. Qatar Airways offer a direct flight service from Gatwick, with an approximate flight time of 12 hours. Vietnam Airlines are due to begin a daily service from London Stansted by the end of the year.
What language do they speak?
The state language is Vietnamese. However, due to Ho Chi Minh’s ethnic diversity, a wide variety of languages are spoken. These include Khmer, Mandarin, Cham and Tay. Due to their colonial past, French is also spoken by a minority of the city’s older citizens.
What is the local beer like?
The most widely available tipple is Bia-Hoi, a preservative-free, draught beer served widely throughout the city in bars and street cafés. The Saigon Beer Company produces a selection of high-quality bottled options, including the bitter 333, light pilsner Hue and the popular Saigon Lager.
Other drinks?
Don’t depart Ho Chi Minh without sampling possibly the world’s most curious alcoholic beverage, snake wine! Snake wine is made by adding a whole, poisonous snake and some medicinal herbs, to a large bottle of rice wine and allowing it to ferment over many months. It’s served in small shot glasses and is believed to have special restorative effects!
What is the transport like?
This vast metropolis offers a number of varied options to get around. The ‘Reunification Express’ is a daily train service that links Ho Chi Minh in the south with the capital Hanoi, located in the northern highlands. The Saigon River is a major passenger artery, with a myriad of daily scheduled services ferrying people around the city and further afield to Cambodia and the Mekong Delta. For snap-happy tourists, probably the most pleasurable way to enjoy this wonderful municipality is by cyclo. For those of a more adventurous disposition, a motorbike pillion ride through the city’s crammed streets is an unforgettable experience!
What’s the food like?
Vietnamese cuisine is hugely varied. The meals are light and nutritious, with fresh vegetables, herbs and spices commonly used. Vietnam has a strong tradition of vegetarian food and prides itself on possibly the world’s healthiest diet. All dishes are made fresh and place a strong emphasis on colour and presentation. Fish-based dishes are extremely popular and come in a number of styles, including kho (boiled), chien (fried) and bam (sautéed). All Vietnamese dishes come accompanied with a selection of vegetables, often raw and sometimes only briefly stir-fried to preserve their nutritional value. The city’s location in South East Asia means that strong traditions of Chinese, Thai and Khmer (Cambodian) cuisine are also popular.
What’s the nightlife like?
Ho Chi Minh boasts a thriving nightlife, largely concentrated around the ‘District 1’ area of the city, particularly in the vicinity of Dong Khoi street. The standard of hostelries varies hugely, so ask around before you wander too far. A cover charge usually applies, which also entitles you to one free drink. Probably the best known bar in Ho Chi Minh is Apocalypse Now a late-night, weekend haunt named after the legendary Vietnam war movie of the same name. The prices are normally reasonable, but sometimes become extortionate on weekends! Beware, many of Ho Chi Minh’s top clubs are also magnets for street prostitutes and
pick-pockets.
Why should I go?
Ho Chi Minh is a magnificent city, possibly the friendliest and most welcoming in all of South East Asia. It teems with activity, day and night and is truly a feast for the senses. The architecture ranges from traditional Vietnamese design to French colonial and its inhabitants possess a restless energy and positivity. Exploring it by foot is a memorable experience. The street view constantly change from ancient Buddhist pagodas to multi-coloured street markets, modern buildings to ancient food and medicine traders. Ho Chi Minh has an infectious spirit, despite its crazy traffic and often oppressive weather. It’s barely a generation since Ho Chi Minh was gripped by the horrors of the Vietnam war, but today it’s a proud city, elegantly moving forward without forsaking its rich heritage.
What are the touristy things to do?
The city has much to offer the curious tourist. History buffs are naturally drawn to the Reunification Palace and War Remnants Museum. A short distance away, the world famous Cu Chi Tunnels, launch-pad for the Viet-Cong’s ‘Tet Offensive’ in 1968 are a truly astonishing experience. Squeezing into these tiny tunnels is definitely not for those of a claustrophobic nature! Soldiers often spent up to a year in this vast underground network of passages. The city centre is also widely adorned with many striking buildings built during the French occupation. For a true taste of Ho Chi Minh, a visit to the Ben Thanh Market is a must. This huge commercial centre is home to hundreds of craft merchants and is a great place to sample Vietnamese street cuisine. Deep-fried crickets anyone?
Anything else?
Take a short motorbike ride from Ho Chi Minh to the Tay Ninh Holy See, home to the minority Cao Dai religion. This marvellously ornate building hosts daily ceremonies where Cao Dai clerics, in attractive multi-coloured vestments, pray for the souls of the departed. This tolerant faith venerates ancestors, abhors violence and is strictly vegetarian. Their teachings are an unusual combination of Buddhist, Confucian and Christian beliefs. The building’s vast interior is decorated in a series of multi-coloured patterns that simply defy explanation!
Anything to avoid?
A short distance from the tunnels of Cu Chi, tourists are sometimes offered the opportunity, for a hefty fee, to discharge weapons used during the Vietnam war. This all takes place within a short distance of a village, which suffered greatly during the conflict. This distasteful exercise is extremely disrespectful to the local community and should be avoided like the plague!
What should I bring home?
Vietnamese tailoring is world-renowned and for a very reasonable price, that silk suit you’ve always craved could be yours! It’s also a unique experience, getting measured up by expert tailors and returning the following day for your first fitting. You can’t afford to do it at home, so why not in Vietnam and for a fraction of the cost!
When should I go?
March to May is best, when the weather’s hot but dry. However, if you want to experience those insane monsoon rains take a trip in midsummer. Make sure to pack a brolly, because you’ve never seen rain like it!
What’s my challenge?
Take to this wonderful city by foot. Interact with the locals, who’re always willing to offer directions to helplessly lost tourists! Sample the fine cuisine and soak up the city’s rich cultural legacy. Spend time in the bustling city markets, where just about anything imaginable is available for a price... Take a day-long cyclo tour, taking breaks for green tea and visit the many impressive temples and monuments.
What’s the currency?
The local currency is the Dong (VND).
Something to remember...
The Vietnam War was a near 20 year conflict, which inflicted massive hardship on the country’s citizens. Nevertheless, despite the many atrocities which occurred during this time, Vietnamese people bear no ill-will to Western, and more specifically American, tourists. The ‘live and let live’ mantra practiced by Vietnamese people makes it one of the most welcoming countries in the world. The maturity and tolerance practiced by these people is a lesson to other nations around the world, struggling to come to terms with the ravages of conflict.