12 Step Planet: La Rochelle

Where exactly is it?

A beautifully preserved medieval port city in south-west France, La Rochelle is about half way down the Atlantic Coast, almost at the centre of the sweeping Bay of Biscay. It is the capital of the Charente-Maritime “department” and has a population of about 80,000. These numbers are swelled considerably by visitors all year round as it is a hugely popular tourist destination for both French natives and international visitors.
How Do I Get There?
Ryanair operates flights from both Dublin and Cork to Aéroport La Rochelle-Ile de Ré, about 5km outside the city. Transport into the city centre is by bus. La Rochelle is about a five-hour drive from Roscoff and Cherbourg. It is also served by a central railway station, La Rochelle Ville, and the TGV from Paris to La Rochelle takes about
three hours.
What language do they speak?
Most definitely French and like most places in France, visitors are expected at the very least, to make an effort to speak a few words of the language. In fact, La Rochelle is one of the most popular destinations for visitors coming to learn French and there is an abundance of schools offering short courses in the language and the local culture. (Although that said, English is spoken in most restaurants and bars, with menus provided in several languages.)
What’s the local beer like?
Even though France is one of the biggest producers of malt barley in Europe, the region is not noted for its beer (which represents only 16% of the alcohol market compared to 64% for wine). In the bars and cafes of La Rochelle, of which there are many, you can expect to find the full range of French and European draught beers, with brands such as 1664 and Stella Artois among the most popular. The area is very popular with Dutch, Belgian and German visitors and it’s also common to see Amstel, Heineken, Becks, Grolsch and Kronenberg on tap, depending on the bar or restaurant. There are, in addition, several Irish bars in La Rochelle with Guinness available on draught. When it comes to bottled beers the range is much wider of course and the choice is better still in the local supermarkets.
Other Drinks?
Wine: the region’s climate, which is typically mild and sunny at the end of autumn, contributes to the production of a range of pleasant, generally fruity wines with white wines representing more than 80% of production. Dry, light and scented, they are the perfect accompaniment to fish and seafood. Rosé wines and fruity red wines are also popular here while Cognac region isn’t too away.
What’s the transport like?
La Rochelle is an old medieval, very compact city with narrow, winding, cobblestoned streets. The best way to get around and to explore the city is on foot or by bicycle. The city has a municipal bike hire scheme and has 160km of dedicated cycle lanes.
What is the food like?
Seafood is the main culinary specialty in La Rochelle and the city abounds with excellent seafood restaurants especially around the Vieux Port (Harbour area). Mussels in a creamy white wine and onion sauce served with French Fries is one of the staples and you’ll find it everywhere – even in kiosks and foodstalls on the side of the street and at road junctions out in the countryside.
Why should I go?
Because La Rochelle, known in France as the “Pearl of the Atlantic” is a beautiful, historic city with plenty to see and do. It’s also relatively cheap to reach by air
from Ireland.
What are the touristy things
to do?
Strolling along the harbour front taking in the sights is one of the best ways of soaking up the atmosphere. The Ile de Ré, one of France’s most popular islands, is nearby and now accessible by a bridge. 30km long and 5km wide, the island has stunning beaches, fabulous seafood and charming ports. The best way to explore is to hire a bike at one of the many rental shops and cycle across.
When should I go?
La Rochelle is busy all year round but the best times to go, especially for a short or weekend break, are late spring, early summer and early autumn. It gets very busy during the summer with families visiting from the nearby campsites and is probably best avoided in August when the French typically take their holidays.
What is the nightlife like?
Restaurants, bars and clubs in that order are the main night-time attractions in La Rochelle with much of the activity taking place outdoors. The harbour-front is lined with cafes and restaurants, but for more action, head for the rue St-Nicolas where there are more bars, some offering live music and most with a lively atmosphere. Nightclubs worth checking out include L’Oxford, plage de la Concurrence, and Le Triolet, 8 rue des Carmes An older crowd heads for rue des Templiers, where you’ll find the Piano Pub, the Mayflower, the St-James and the Académie de la Bière.
What should I bring home?
Crafts from the open air markets held most mornings, designer clothes from some of the dozens of boutiques in the city. Cognac.
What’s the currency?
The Euro of course!
Anything else?
La Rochelle is a trendy, fashion-conscious town where people tend to dress in style. It used to have a fantastic record shop called Good Vibrations, no relation to Terri Hooley’s legendary Belfast outlet of the same name. The last time we visited it had converted to a mod-oriented fashion emporium complete with Vespa Scooter parked outside!
Something to Remember…
The siege of La Rochelle, from 1627-1628, was one of the most notable events in the town’s history. Louis XIII and Cardinal Richilieu wanted to suppress Protestants in France, and La Rochelle was the centre of this activity. Despite attempts at aid from the English, the siege held and the city was starved into submission - of a population of 28,000 before the siege of La Rochelle, only 5,000 were alive when it finished.
Following the siege, the city refound its earlier prosperity due to international trade - this time also including French Canada as an active trading partner.
La Rochelle also acted as a major departure point for emigrants to the new world (there is an interesting exhibition in the Chain Tower of La Rochelle).