12 Step Planet: Lebanon

Where exactly is it?
On the very eastern side of the Mediterranean. Beirut, the capital, is at the centre of the country’s coast. Like the Phoenix it has risen from the ashes of war. 

How do I get there?
As there are no direct flights out of Dublin, you’ll have to take a connection through major hubs like London, Paris, Frankfurt or Istanbul. Emirates and Etihad offer value deals through Dubai or Abu Dhabi: not great for travel time or distance but can work if you want to hop off the plane there for a whistle-stop visit. 

What language do they speak?
Arabic, French and English are used, sometimes in the one sentence!

What’s the beer like?
Who knew the Lebanese made beer? They do, in the form of the excellent Almaza. Plus there’s the country’s long wine-making tradition which you can sample by heading to the Bekaa Valley and visiting the wineries of Château Ksara and Château Kefraya. Try Arak, an aniseed spirit that turns cloudy when mixed with water. And top it all off with some strong, thick coffee.

What’s the transport like?
Taxis are your best bet around Beirut. Forget the bus. Always agree the price beforehand, hail them and use shared ‘service taxis’ for cheaper fixed route travel. To venture outside Beirut only the very brave will rent a car and extreme care should be taken due to heavy traffic, the condition of the tarmac and the very loose local application of the rules of the road. You can also rent a chauffeured car or join tour groups.

What’s the food like?
To die for. Lots of garlic and lemon juice marinades, lashings of olive oil and sprinklings of pomegranate. Mezze offers a mix of salads such as tabouleh, dips like baba ghanouj or hummus, vine leaves and meat kibbeh, eaten with flatbread or markouk bread. Labne, a sort of yoghurt-like cheese, is amazing in the mornings as a dip for mini-cucumbers or rolled into flatbread with honey. Mixed grills of lamb or chicken, fresh fish and myriads of Lebanese sweets, sticky and laced with the rosy aromas of the orient: at Easter, try ma’amoul.

What’s the nightlife like?
Stellar! Head down to Gemmayzeh and the surrounding area for great pubs, bars and clubs. And for the all-night glam experience, throw on your finest rags and head to SKYBAR or book a booth at the infamous Music Hall: a plush cabaret-style theatre cum nightclub which hosts a mix of local live acts, world music and pop music that somehow leaves you dancing barefoot on tables and chairs till the break of dawn. And to wind down at sunrise, head to Al Falamanki Café with its balmy terrace, traditional refreshments, shisha and backgammon.

Why should I go?
The war zone stigma linked to Lebanon and Beirut is still alive, sadly overshadowing its values as a top-notch tourist destination. It’s a place where you can dip your toes in the sea in the morning and head to the mountains in the afternoon. Lebanon is a surprising blend of laid back and enigmatic and carries in its DNA Phoenician, Greek, Roman and Arab and French influences. 

What are the main tourist attractions?
Go to Beirut’s renovated central district and check out the Rolex tower at Place de l’Etoile, visit the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque with its striking blue dome and gargantuan chandeliers. Those not scared of heights should board the rickety cable car to the top of Harissa Hill in Jounieh to visit the giant white statue of the Lady of Lebanon, arms open over the breathtaking views of Beirut. Head to the Jeita grotto and stroll through the underground cathedral-like caves. Visit the historic city of Byblos with its layers of history making it one of the world’d longest inhabited areas at 7,000 years old. Sun worshippers may want to visit private beach-clubs such as Eddé Sands in Byblos.

Anything else?
A trek inland to Baalbek should be on your bucket list. It’s one of the world’s most impressive Roman sites and was named after Phoenician sun god Baal. Nothing compares to standing at the foot of the monumental columns of the Temple of Jupiter or climbing the steps to the gigantic Temple of Bacchus, reminders of the lengths humans go to in pursuit of immortality. Catch the summertime Baalbeck International Festival, a top cultural event for music, ballet, dance and theatre which has hosted performances from the likes of Miles Davis, Massive Attack, Deep Purple and even Michael Flatley’s Lord of the Dance!

Anything to avoid?
Getting involved in religious or political arguments about Lenanon and its diplomatic relations. Beirut is fairly relaxed but don’t test its tolerance by going topless on the beach. The Department of Foreign Affairs currently recommends avoiding the areas around the Tripoli area of northern Lebanon, the areas south of the Litani river and any travel within 5km of the Syrian border. 

When should I go?
The summer months are the hottest and driest but also the busiest. Spring and autumn are cooler and less crowded. Go skiing in winter. 

What’s my challenge?
The whole region is disrupted at the moment, which could make certain areas unsafe. If you decide to travel, always check with the Department of Foreign Affairs for danger zones and formalities like visas. If your passport contains an Israeli entry or exit stamp you will be refused entry.
What’s the currency?
The Lebanese Pound, also called Lira. US Dollars are widely accepted.

Something to remember
Barter!