12 Step Planet: Mantua

Where exactly is it?
Mantua (Mantova in Italian) is a small city in Northern Italy in the province of Lombardy. It’s also called the City of Three Lakes as it’s surrounded on three sides by manmade bodies of water, built in the 12th century as a defence for the city.
How do I get there?
Aer Lingus offer a seasonal summer service from Dublin to Verona-Villafranca Airport, departing three times a week. Mantua is a 30-minute drive from Verona, and a shuttle bus operates between the airport and the city. Otherwise, trains from Milano Centrale Station to Mantua take just under two hours.
What language do they speak?
As you’d suspect, the majority of people in Mantua speak Italian. There are a number of different dialects in the region, but standard Italian is most commonly used.
What is the local wine like?
Lambrusco is an Italian red wine that originates from Mantua and which bears no relation to the sickeningly sweet, low-alcohol fizzy-pop sold under that name here. It’s most often drunk as an accompaniment with pork, but also goes well with lasagne, cold meats and is a treat with pizza too!
Other drinks?
Numerous cafés, often called bars in Italy, claim to have the best coffee in the region. Then, it would be a struggle to get bad coffee in Italy. Treat yourself to a double shot espresso in La Ducale Café on Via Pietro Fortunato Calvi and marvel at the craftsmanship and pride that goes into making it.
What is the transport like?
The city is well serviced by Mantova railway station with daily services to other hubs such as Milan, Cremona and Verona. Urban and suburban bus lines run through the city. Car rentals are available too, if you’re confident enough to brave the Italian roads.
What is the food like?
Like all Italian cities, Mantua takes a lot of pride in its culinary offerings. Head to Nostromo, a seafood restaurant run by a family from Naples, located on the road from Mantua to nearby Brescia. They serve inexpensive fresh sea food. In the city cente, the homely Trattoria Due Cavallini on Via Salnitro – the boiled meats are especially fab – and Ristorante Pizzeria Annette on Vicolo Santa Caterina are big Hot Travel favourites. Like coffee, finding bad pizza is almost an impossibility. For dessert try torta sbrisolona, an almond cake that’s a local speciality. Dotted with almonds and boasting a unique crumbly texture, it’s worth trying if you want to stray from the more obvious (but still incredibly delicious) choice of an Italian gelateria.
What’s the nightlife like?
Mantua is largely a quiet city. Restaurants are the first port of call for celebration, so there’s no dedicated nightlife. Instead, the student city of Bologna is about an hour-and-a-half away and has a bustling nightlife. If Mantua’s charms are too much to resist, go for a midnight stroll through the almost deserted city and appreciate the silence of Mantua at night. The clock tower in Piazza Sordello is a striking site when floodlit.
Why should I go?
Mantua is steeped in history, a fact which the museums there are a testament to. The pace of life is relaxed and it has a genuine Italian feel. You can easily wander down little side streets that lead out to grand openings in front of cathedrals and churches, and even during the summer months it’s never overrun with tourists who are mainly of the day-trip variety. It’s the perfect opportunity to experience a stunning Renaissance city with unspoiled Italian surroundings, and is within easy striking distance of both Verona and Brescia, another largely unheralded gem.
What are the touristy things to do?
Mantua isn’t massively touristy. It’s more a well-kept secret among Italians. You won’t find any raging theme parks or Mario and Luigi running around shouting “Mamma Mia!” Walking, cycling and boat tours are available along the River Mincio. The Palazzo Te is the former summer palace of the Gonzaga family, who used to run Mantua. It’s now been turned into a museum. Tourists can get a glimpse of the wealth and extravagance of the family and the incredible artwork that adorns the walls and ceilings of the palace rooms. The Chamber of Giants is a particularly arresting sight; the paintings on the walls completely surround you and hours could be spent in this room just looking at the intricate detailing in the artwork. Calcio fans should head to Stadio Danilo Martelli, the home of Mantova FC who’ve dropped down the leagues in recent years but still attract an insanely loyal following. Note that passports have to be shown when buying tickets.
Anything else?
The picturesque fishing village of Rivalta on the outskirts of Mantua city lies on the banks of the River Mincio. Colourful houses line the streets. The bright paint schemes of the houses and the peacefulness of the village give Rivalta a dreamlike quality. There’s also a rustic-looking youth hostel on the banks of the river if you’re on a budget and want to stay-over.
Anything to avoid?
Crime rates are quite low in Mantua, so there’s nothing to worry about outside of the usual travel advice.
What should I bring home?
Mantua is a hotbed of authentic Italian cuisine, so pick-up some delicacies from the farmer’s market in the town square or a stone engraving depicting the city from one of the local shops.
When should I go?
With temperatures averaging 30 degrees around the end of July and throughout August, Mantua is best visited in the slightly more manageable warmth of May and June, when temperatures stay in the balmy 20s.
What’s my challenge?
If the flat plains of Mantua leave you craving a mountainous skyline, then make the journey of a few hours to the Alps. Get the train to Avio, situated at the base of the Italian Alps and stay in a rifugio. Rifugios are wooden huts that offer unmatched scenery and a real chance to commune with nature.
What’s the currency?
The euro, so no need for a trip to the bureau de change! The cost of living in Mantua is relatively low, especially in comparison to Dublin prices. A monthly pass on public transport in the city averages around €38, while a three-course meal for two with lashings of wine rarely costs more than €60. Not bad for a place once nominated as Italy’s best city to live in.
Something to remember...
Northern Italy is frequently rocked by minor earthquakes, but in 2012 Mantua was struck by the aftershock of a quake that resulted in damage to frescos in the ceiling of Palazzo Ducale. Fortunately, the Palazzo has been restored and reopened. But minor earthquakes aren’t unusual in this part of Italy.