12 Step Planet : Munich

Where exactly is it?
Munich is the capital city of the southern German state of Bavaria. It lies due north of the Bavarian Alps, which separate Germany from Austrian Tyrol. It sits on the river Isar, a large tributary of the mighty Danube. Munich is the third largest city in Germany after Berlin and Hamburg.
How do I get there?
Munich’s Franz Josef Strauss Airport is serviced by regular, year-round Aer Lingus and Lufthansa flights from Dublin. Flight time is approximately two hours and 30 minutes. Alternatively, Dublin has regular connections to Frankfurt, Germany’s largest airport, which operates numerous short-hop flights to Munich.
What language do they speak?
The majority language is of course German, but the minority Austro-Bavarian tongue is also spoken in the city and its environs. English is also widely spoken in the touristy city centre.
What is the local beer like?
You’re in for a treat in München! Munich is home to the Oktoberfest, the world famous celebration of beer drinking. Almost half of all German breweries are based in Bavaria and the choice on tap is literally endless. All brewers must observe a strict, 500-year-old, beer purity law called the Reinheitsgebot. This law only permits the use of four ingredients: water, hops, yeast and barely. As a result, German beers are free from all chemical additives and famously hangover-free! The Benedictine Weihenstephan Abbey brewery, north of the city, is the oldest in the world. It
has been producing beer since 1040. In Munich, it’s more about the style of beer than the actual brand. Over fifty styles are available and about 5,000 brands, each varying in taste and appearance. Amongst the most popular styles are the wheat based Weissbier, Pilsner, a popular pale lager or Altbier, a copper-coloured, traditional ale.
Other drinks?
The most popular distilled beverage is undoubtedly Schnapps. This potent, colourless drink is distilled from fermented fruit which contains no added sugar. It comes in a variety of flavours, with apple, pear, plum and cherry the most popular. Another local speciality is Franconian wine from the northern Bavarian region of the same name. The mineral rich soil produces excellent grapes, especially the Pinot Noir.
What is the transport like?
As with most German cities, getting around is not a problem. Munich boasts one of the most punctual and integrated transport networks in the world. The airport is connected to the city centre by the S-Bahn, a suburban, electric rail system. The city’s underground rail is known as the U-Bahn and criss-crosses the entire metropolitan area. For a more laidback travel experience, take the Munich Tramway. Operational since 1876, the Trambahn is an excellent way of soaking up the city’s fine architecture.
What’s the food like?
Vegetarians look away now! Bavarians love their meat, any time of day. Local specialities include Weisswurst, a white sausage made from minced veal and bacon, and Schweinsbraten; a pork-based pot roast. Wurstsalat is a widely served, marinated sausage salad, while for those of a sweet tooth there’s Apfelstrudel, a cinnamon flavoured apple-tart.
What’s the nightlife like?
Munich has a bustling and varied nightlife. In fact, there are over 6,000 licensed premises within the city limits! The Münchener Freiheit district in Schwabing is the main focal point for late-night revelry. There are countless bars, cafés and clubs, thriving on the back of the large student population. While largely excellent value, beware that admission to some trendy hostelries is pretty steep. All tastes are catered for, from banging techno to cheesy, ’80s poodle rock. Connoisseurs of classical music, head to the Gasteig, Munich’s principle performing arts centre. The city has a proud musical heritage and was once home to such classical heavyweights as Richard Strauss and Wagner (no, not the X Factor dude) .
Why should I go?
Munich is undoubtedly one the most beautiful cities in Europe. Despite heavy bombing during WWII, the historic centre has been restored to its gothic glory. The Marienplatz is home to some of the city’s finest architecture, including the Town Hall or Rathaus and the twelfth-century Romanesque-era Peterskirche. The city manages to marry its love of traditional, provincial living with modern sophistication. It has boutiques to rival Berlin, is home to car manufacturing giant BMW and offers an impressive variety of world-class museums and cultural centres. Probably the most charming aspect of Munich is its laidback atmosphere.
What are the touristy things to do?
There’s something for everyone in Munich. Sports fans will be awe-struck by both the space-aged Allianz Arena, home to Bayern Munich and their iconic, former home, the Olympiastadion, host venue for the ’72 Olympics and ’74 FIFA World Cup Final. To experience partying on a truly gargantuan level, check out Oktoberfest, which takes place towards the end of September. Regarded as the world’s largest fair, Oktoberfest is both a celebration of Bavarian culture and their love of fine beer. Its two week run attracts over 5 million visitors annually. If the pure insanity of Oktoberfest is a bridge too far, simply soak up the unique atmosphere of one of the city’s many historic beer-halls. The four hundred plus year-old Hofbräuhaus am Platzl is always busy with people quaffing weissbier and listening to lederhosen clad, traditional Bavarian brass bands. The giant Catholic cathedral, Frauenkirche, is a city landmark. Its 15th century gothic tower dominates the city skyline and offers amazing views of the surrounding city and nearby Alps. Take five in the English Gardens, Munich’s beautifully maintained city park, which has amongst many features a man-made surfing wave!
Anything else?
Unfortunately, one of the most significant tourist attractions in Munich’s hinterland is the former Nazi concentration camp of Dachau. Situated just north of the city, Dachau was built soon after Adolf Hitler’s coming to power and was the blueprint for all future prison camps. The guided tours don’t spare the grim details and visitors are brought on the ‘path of the prisoner’, including stops at the baths, barracks and crematorium. It is a chilling reminder of a terrible atrocity from our recent past.
Anything to avoid?
If you’ve got your drinking shoes on and want to sample the madness of Oktoberfest, then plan well ahead! Hotel and restaurant prices are extortionate for the two-week festival and require booking well in advance. Also, avoid the major, commercial beer tents which are simply pandering to a young, boisterous clientele. For a more authentic Bavarian experience and the opportunity to mix with locals bopping to oompah music, seek out one of the well-hidden and much smaller tents on the fair’s periphery.
What should I bring home?
Never know what to wear for that Hallowe’en party? You could do worse than pick up some authentic Bavarian lederhosen for guys, or a traditional Dirndl dress for the ladies. These time-honoured styles are still commonplace in Bavaria, especially in the hospitality trade.
When should I go?
As Munich gets a little choc-a-bloc during the summer months and again around Oktoberfest, Spring is probably the best bet. The weather is crisp and mild and all the major attractions are open with only a fraction of the crowds. During the winter months, snowfall turns Munich into something of a wonderland. The lively Christmas market serves traditional foodstuffs and mulled wine, making Munich an ideal destination for that New Year escape.
What’s my challenge?
Soak up the unique atmosphere of Bavarian culture. Sample the quirky delicacies, marvel at the sheer variety of high-quality beer on offer and visit some of its wonderful historic buildings and museums. Don’t discount modernist Munich. The BMW museum underlines the Bavarian obsession with high-performance cars and the city’s two epic stadiums are a testament to the ingenuity and brilliance of German engineering.
What’s the currency?
The local currency is the Euro (‘er for now – diplomatic affairs editor).
Something to remember...
Munich has a remarkable history and has witnessed some troubled times over recent centuries. It was the original home of the Nazi Party and host city for the infamous pre-conflict summit between the allied British and French Prime Minister’s and the fascist axis of Mussolini’s Italy and Hitler’s Nazi Germany. Following the outbreak of war, Munich was largely destroyed during allied air-raids and rebuilt to its former glory during post-war American occupation. The 1972 Munich Olympics, intended to further rebuild German relations with the international community post-war, was soured when the Palestinian militant group Black September assassinated eleven members of the Israeli Olympic team. Despite its torrid past, Munich continues to go from strength to strength and bears few visible scars from its turbulent history.