12 Step Planet: Nairobi

Where exactly is it?
Nairobi is the capital of Kenya and has a population in excess of three million. The ‘Green City in the Sun’ is situated south of Mount Kenya and only 140km from the equator. Nairobi was founded in 1899 and became capital of independent Kenya in 1963.
How do I get there?
The lure of the safari ensures that Nairobi is serviced by regular scheduled flights from all over Europe. Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is an eight hour trip from London, with both British Airways and Virgin Atlantic offering competitive fares year round. It’s a busy route and there are plenty of good value options. Intrepid Travel (www.intrepidtravel.com) do some great specialised trips, including an eight-day Kenya Wildlife Adventure, that are well worth checking out.
What language do they speak?
The state language is Swahili, although English is also widely spoken. A dialect of pidgin English called ‘Sheng’ is commonly used by the city’s youth. Furthermore, something in the region of 60 tribal languages are spoken in the city. Tribalism is a crucial element of Kenyan society and each dialect is a significant status symbol for its people.
What is the local beer like?
The leading brand is Tusker, an extremely popular pale lager that dominates the Kenyan market. One of the country’s most successful football teams, Tusker FC, is owned by East African Breweries and named after their leading product. Tanzanian tipples such as Safari and Kilimanjaro lager are also widely available.
Other drinks?
Grinding poverty and the inflated price of beer (due to heavy tax penalties) has resulted in a booming illegal ‘moonshine’ industry. ‘Chang’aa’ is the most popular alcoholic drink, a paint-stripper strength spirit, fermented from maize and sorghum. Avoid like the plague! Dubious distillers have been known to add such inappropriate ingredients as anti-freeze to hasten the fermentation process. A wide selection of Kenyan whiskies are produced, amongst them Safari, Top Secret and Hunter’s Choice. Nothing to write home about.
What is the transport like?
Getting about Nairobi can be something of a challenge. The best bet is to stick to taxis, which offer a reasonably priced and comparatively safe service. The locals get about in privately owned minibuses called Matatus, which translates as ‘thirty cent fare’. Unfortunately, Matatus have a dodgy safety record, due to careless driving and overcrowding. They’re also noticeable due to their elaborate decoration, often celebrating the owner’s favourite football team or music. The government’s policy to phase-out Matatus has resulted in an increasing number of city bus services, with Kenya Bus and Citi Hoppa the most popular. Despite being founded as a railway hub, Nairobi has a limited rail network. The most popular service is the connection with the coastal city of Mombasa.
What’s the food like?
Kenyan cuisine reflects the country’s colonial history. The Portuguese arrived in East Africa in the late 1400s and brought with them tropical fruit and vegetables from newly discovered Brazil. Later, the British introduced Indian slaves as plantation labourers and soon curry became a popular dish. Conversely, some of the significant native tribes, such as the Turkana and Maasai, rely almost exclusively on beef as a food source. Consequently, the Kenyan diet is heavily influenced by both tribal traditions and European occupation. The food is simple with normally a meat or fish choice, aside a combination of vegetables, such as irio, a mash of corn, beans and potatoes common amongst the Kikuyu people.

What’s the nightlife like?
The Nairobi nightlife is famed throughout Africa and with good reason. Most clubs don’t get going until after midnight and finish until the following morning. However, it’s important to have your wits about you as Kenya’s capital hasn’t been nicknamed ‘Nai-robbery’ for nothing. The people are incredibly gracious and hospitable, but the crippling levels of poverty fuel petty crime. However, don’t let that deter you. Nairobi’s eclectic mix of clubs offer everything from traditional African beats to Bollywood theme nights. Word of advice; leave the credit card in the hotel room and only carry a reasonable amount of cash.
Why should I go?
Most people arrive in Nairobi and head off straight away on safari. However, Kenya’s capital city is well worth a day or two. Its bustling streets and animated characters make it a people-watching paradise. It also boasts the country’s finest cafés and restaurants and is a must for adventurous meat eaters. Crocodile anyone? Some of the world’s finest teas, coffees and fruits are grown in Kenya’s fertile Rift Valley. When the sun goes down, put on the dancing shoes and soak up arguably Africa’s best nightlife. In many ways, Nairobi is a microcosm of wider Kenyan society. It has all the beautiful Victorian buildings, constructed during the glory days of British East Africa and sprawling slums from more recent urbanisation. Kenyans are passionate about their wildlife and some of Africa’s most respected conservation projects are based in Nairobi. Paying a visit to one such organisation is guaranteed to lift your spirits.
What are the touristy things to do?
Nairobi’s chief attractions can easily be covered in a couple of days. Nature lovers are in for treat! The Langata Giraffe Centre is a must. This educational organisation is committed to rearing endangered Rothschild giraffes and re-introducing them to their native environment. The inspirational David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust plays a similar role. The staff raise orphaned black rhinos and elephants before releasing them into the wild. Visit the Nairobi home of Karen Blixen, writer of the celebrated biography, adapted into an Oscar winning film, Out Of Africa. The elegantly restored homestead is surrounded by immaculate gardens and a museum chronicling her storied life. The Nairobi National Museum is also worth a look. The extensively renovated complex houses a permanent collection detailing Kenya’s tribal life, a Snake Park and impressive Botanic Gardens. Finish the day at the Thorn Tree Café, a famed meeting spot for African travellers, where handwritten messages were once pinned to the large acacia tree.
Anything else?
Vegetarians, look away now! Carnivore is Nairobi’s famed all-you-can-eat buffet, where everything from prime beef to crocodile steak is on the menu. Thankfully, all offerings are farm grown. Hunting wild game is illegal in Kenya and the country’s authorities are committed to reducing the impact of poaching.
Anything to avoid?
Try not to attract the attention of petty thieves. When enjoying the sites of Nairobi by day or soaking up its heady nightlife, dress down for the occasion. Leave your bling, if you have any, in the hotel safe. Expensive watches and jewellery are prime targets. At night, be careful not to wander down blind alleyways. Stick to the well-lit city streets and simply jump in a cab rather than roaming aimlessly. Keep your wits about you and all will be fine.
What should I bring home?
Kenya is renowned for its wide range of hand-crafted gift items, produced by tribal craftsmen and women. Remember, handicrafts are a vital component of the local economy and purchasing beautiful soapstone or wood carving helps to keep Kenyans in regular employment. For the cost of nothing more than breakfast, you’ll have a permanent memory of your visit to Africa’s Garden of Eden. Do your homework; numerous stores are dotted around the city, specialising in everything from Maasai jewellery to traditional carvings.
When should I go?
Kenya’s equatorial climate means that it’s an ideal year-round destination. However, to avoid the rainy season, January to March is probably best. At nearly 2km above sea-level, Nairobi boasts a moderate, highland micro-climate. Temperatures rarely rises above the mid-twenties and its winters are generally mild.
What’s my challenge?
Experience the manic bustle of one of Africa’s most vibrant cities. Explore its colonial heritage, visit the moving animal conservation projects and sample its meat-rich diet. Many people are intimidated by Nairobi’s bad press, but don’t be put off. It’s a fascinating city and easily navigable. Stick to the simple guidelines: Travel by taxi and avoid the bling!
What’s the currency?
The local currency is the Kenyan Shilling (KES). However, all major world currencies, namely Euro, Sterling and Dollar are readily accepted.
Something to remember...
Kenya is largely a very peaceful and friendly country, but the ethnic hostility of ’08 exposed the ever-present, tribal tensions. Voting patterns in national elections always break down along tribal lines and political corruption is widespread. Before making that dream visit to Kenya, it’s worth doing some background reading on its tribal landscape. Although tribes have lived in mixed communities for generations, occasionally old rivalries can resurface.