12 Step Planet: New Orleans

Where exactly is it?
‘The Big Easy’ is in the southeast corner of the southern US state of Louisiana. It’s an important trade port, along the Mississippi River a short distance from the Gulf of Mexico. Lake Pontchartrain sits directly to the north with Lake Borgne to its east. The population is approximately 350,000. There are over 1.2 million in the metropolitan area.
How do I get there?
One option is Aer Lingus to New York’s JFK and a Jet Blue flight to New Orleans’ Louis Armstrong International Airport. There are multiple options from London Heathrow, where United Airlines, Delta and British Airways operate a daily direct service.
What language do they speak?
English is the first language of the vast bulk of the city’s citizens. Louisiana’s colourful history has resulted in the evolution of minority languages. The local English dialect is colloquially known as Yat, derived from the local phrase ‘where y’at?’ This dialect is heavily influenced by Louisiana Creole French and southern American English. Cajun, derived from French, is widely spoken in communities west of New Orleans. Spanish or Spanish Creole is spoken by ethnic minorities of Hispanic immigrants.
What is the local beer like?
Louisiana is home to some of the finest craft beer producers in the USA and it’s certainly worth checking out the region’s award-winning brews. The Nola Brewery produces an excellent IPA and their Irish Channel Stout is equally good. If ale’s your thing, check out Abita Brewing Company. They produce a broad range of tipples from malted barley including Brown, Abbey and Honey Rye Ale varieties. Other notable breweries include Bayou Teche and Crescent City Brewery. No need to go mainstream in New Orleans!
Other drinks?
New Orleans is famed for its love-affair with cocktails! The city’s musical heritage is synonymous with numerous concoctions, unique to the Big Easy. The Sazerac is king amongst local cocktails and was granted ‘official’ status a couple of years back. Created by Creole chemist Antoine Amadie Peychaud in the 1830s, it consists of brandy, a mixture of bitters and sugar. There are countless others, including the timeless ‘breakfast’ drink Brandy Milk Punch! Invented by Irish American Pat O’Brien in post-prohibition New Orleans, the Hurricane is probably the most widely consumed cocktail today. Call into O’Brien’s, one of the French Quarter’s most popular bars, and check out their heady mixture of rum, passion fruit and fresh lemon juice!
What is the transport like?
Getting about New Orleans is a cinch. Cycling is a great way to experience the city, owing to the extensive network of bike lanes that criss-cross downtown and beyond. The most attractive motorised means of transport are, of course, the iconic streetcars. The streetcars are part of New Orleans’ living history and were immortalised in Tennessee Williams’ A Streetcar Named Desire. They date as far back as 1835 when the St. Charles Line came into existence, making it the oldest in America. The three lines connect the French Quarter, Riverfront district, Canal St. and other key downtown locations. Large portions of the streetcar’s power network were damaged by Hurricane Katrina. Thankfully, they have been restored to their former glory. A spin on the Canal St. Ferry is another must. The ferry has shuttled patrons from downtown across the Mississippi River since 1827! Interstate Highways and the Amtrak rail service connect New Orleans with wider America.
What’s the food like?
The cuisine of New Orleans is celebrated throughout the world for its blend of hearty ingredients and multi-ethnic influences. Gumbo is a classic stew-style dish that reflects the city’s diverse cultural background. It includes okra, a vegetable brought to the US by West African slaves and bay leaves and sassafras first cultivated by Native Americans. Add chicken, seafood, spices and rice and you have gumbo! Jambalaya is another all-time favourite. Prepared from rice, seafood, meat spices and broth it is similar to Spanish paella. Crawfish Étouffée is a distinctive stew dish popular with locals and tourists. For a snack on-the-go try a Po’boy, a fresh meat sandwich served in French bread rolls with salads and sauce. Basically, the food’s to die for!
What’s the nightlife like?
New Orleans’ nightlife is the stuff of legend. It is a hedonistic paradise some might say! The licensing laws don’t require bars and clubs to close. Therefore, they don’t! The French Quarter, particularly Bourbon St., attracts the bulk of visitors. But many other fascinating neighbourhoods are only a hop away. Uniquely in the US, it’s legal to drink on the streets in New Orleans. At night, the sidewalks outside Bourbon St.’s many jazz and burlesque bars are thronged. For a taste of real New Orleans jazz, in its many glorious forms, head to the Frenchmen St. district. Here street culture competes with music clubs. You’re likely to encounter artists and musicians vying for the best spots! There are a large number of fantastic jazz clubs: the Blue Nile, Snug Harbor and the Spotted Cat to name but three! Tremé, made famous by the HBO TV series of the same name, is a neighbourhood to the west of the French Quarter rich in Creole and African-American culture. For a taste of authentic brass band jazz it’s hard to beat!
Why should I go?
New Orleans is a feast for the senses, possibly the most uniquely fascinating city in the USA. Despite the ravages of Hurricane Katrina, the Big Easy remains defiant and is slowly regaining some of the swagger of old. The intoxicating mixture of classical architecture; old-world hospitality, sumptuous food and wonderful jazz music, both in clubs and on the streets, makes any visit to New Orleans joyous and rewarding. Go wild, go mild, go any way you want…
What are the touristy things to do?
Where to start! Aside from experiencing the various old neighbourhoods and soaking up the music and culture, there are many other places worth a visit. Catch your breath in the splendid surrounds of the New Orleans City Park, home to the Botanic Gardens, Sculpture Park and Art Museum. For a taste of the city’s musical heritage head to the tiny Preservation Hall on St. Peter’s St. No drink or food is served, the lighting and seating is old-fashioned. And the music’s simply sublime! For something different, visit Metairie Cemetery, home to some of the most exotic tombs and mausoleums to be seen anywhere. If you’re in luck, you might just encounter a jazz funeral procession passing through! For an insight into the traditions and history of the city’s famed carnival don’t miss Mardi Gras World in the Port of New Orleans. You can watch local arts groups develop and build the large scale floats that dominate the city’s most famous festival. Calling all history buffs! The National WWII Museum is certainly worth an afternoon. It details the experiences of those who took part, offering a fascinating insight into the horrific realities of war.
Anything else?
The Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium is the largest of its kind in America and is quickly becoming one of New Orleans’ main tourist attractions! Highlights include the Underground Gallery, where exhibits bring the dark existence of these tiny creatures to life, and the Louisiana Swamp Gallery, home to the evocative sights and distinctive sounds of the swamplands.
Anything to avoid?
Amidst all the good vibes and revelling lurk the buzz-killers that are pickpockets! Avoid showing your wallet to the world and don’t have
it peaking invitingly out of your back pocket!
What should I bring home?
How about a recipe book? Recreate those amazing Creole dishes in the comfort of your own kitchen! Louisiana is also home to the world’s most celebrated hot sauce, Tabasco.
When should I go?
The party season runs February to May, and naturally everything from air fares to hotel rooms are extortionate. The main reasons for this are Mardi Gras and the New Orleans Jazz Fest. The summer months are stinking hot. If this doesn’t bother you, it’s a good time to visit. However, for value and comfort the best time to travel is October through January.
What’s my challenge?
Immerse yourself in the wonderful atmosphere of America’s most unique city. Sample some of the best street music you’ll ever hear in the old neighbourhoods. Taste the unique dishes that have made the Creole food world renowned and share a drink or two with the hospitable locals.
What’s the currency?
The United States Dollar (USD$)
Something to remember...
Hurricane Katrina caused widespread destruction to New Orleans in 2005, bringing the grand old city to its knees. The tidal barrier system failed, resulting in eighty percent of the city flooding. It is regarded as the worst civil engineering disaster in the history of the USA.