12 Step Planet : Phnom Penh

Where exactly is it?
Phnom Penh is the capital city of Cambodia in Southeast Asia and has a population of over two million people. It is situated in the south of the country on the banks of the Mekong river. The city expanded considerably during the French colonial period of the late 1800’s and became the state capital in 1866.
How do I get there?
Phnom Penh is not readily serviced by direct flights from Western Europe. The best value options are scheduled flights from London to the Asian hubs of Ho Chi Minh City, Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia Airlines offer good value deals year-round, departing Heathrow for Kuala Lumpur and connecting onward to Phnom Penh.
What language do they speak?
The mother tongue of Cambodia is Khmer. The Khmer language is heavily indebted to Sanskrit, the Indian-based language used to record original Hindu and Buddhist scripture. A number of distinct dialects exist, including Khmer Phnom Penh, which uses many abbreviated versions of common words.
What is the local beer like?
Cambodian beer is typical of Southeast Asian breweries and generally excellent. The country has a long established tradition of beer drinking and early cave drawings in central Cambodia depict drunk men enjoying rice beer from coconut shells! The two main breweries, Cambodian and Cambrew, dominate both the home and export market. Amongst the most popular brands are the crisp-tasting Angkor, which is also widely exported, and Angkor Extra Stout, an award-winning dark beer, popular with locals. Another alternative is the similarly named Anchor Beer, a smoother version of the latter. Beer is served widely in bars, clubs and even guesthouses where a ‘happy hour’ offers cut-price brews up until early evening.
Other drinks?
If Cambodian beer doesn’t tickle your fancy, try some local palm or rice wine. But beware, the super-strength rice wine isn’t always produced under the strictest hygiene conditions. Still, a shot or two after dinner won’t do much harm. For something completely different track down a bottle of Golden Muscle wine, a bizarre concoction made from assorted herbs and deer antlers! It’s a strong 35% and should ideally be mixed with cola or soda. Very much an acquired taste...
What is the transport like?
The recommended way to arrive in Phnom Penh is by air. The airport is only 7km west of the city and is serviced by endless taxis and minibuses. When you’ve settled in at your hotel or guesthouse, there are two main options for getting about town to the sights. As with most Southeast Asian cities, Tuk-Tuks are ready and waiting on every street corner. However, for a more leisurely jaunt, opt for a cycle rickshaw or ‘cyclo’. A number of bus companies offer a scheduled service to key destinations both in Cambodia and beyond. Vietnam’s Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and Siem Reap, home to the jaw-dropping Angkor Wat, are amongst the most popular destinations. For a taste of the slow life, hop on a slow boat to the Mekong Delta and experience the scenic tranquillity of farmers tending rice paddies.
What’s the food like?
Cambodian food, while generally excellent, lacks the variety of neighbouring Vietnam and Thailand. Grilled freshwater fish dishes with rice and steamed vegetables is a common staple. Favourites include Ka Tieu, a spicy garlic and noodle soup to which seafood or meat is added, and Amok Trey, fish steamed in coconut milk and wrapped in a banana leaf. Spices such as turmeric, lemongrass and ginger are commonly used in Khmer curries. The influence of French colonialism is most obvious at breakfast, where fresh croissants, omelette and coffee are normally served.
What’s the nightlife like?
Phnom Penh is quite the party town! It has a wide selection of busy pubs and clubs, although they can often be quite seedy. Many of the late-night clubs are simply open brothels where older, Western men mingle with teenage Cambodian girls. The legendary Heart of Darkness club, once rated as the ‘best bar in the world’, today carries a health warning. Gone are the funky music and fascinating international clientele of old, replaced by hordes of prostitutes and local gangsters. Avoid! However, there are other options. The riverfront area is particularly good for high-quality restaurant bars serving good food and late live music. An evening dinner river-cruise is an excellent way to soak up some atmosphere and view the sights from a different perspective. For something a little cultured, head to the Bopha Penh where performances of traditional Khmer dance take place nightly.
Why should I go?
Despite the blight of sex tourism and the persecution wrought on Phnom Penh by the infamous Khmer Rouge regime, it remains a fascinating destination. Once known as the ‘Pearl of Asia’, Phnom Penh still boasts some of the most beautiful architecture in all of Asia. The Khmer people are very hospitable and the city retains a laid-back, unhurried atmosphere. From lazy trips along the river to day-long cyclo tours around the city’s sights, Phnom Penh is a fascinating introduction to Cambodian culture and lifestyle.
What are the touristy things to do?
The lavish Royal Palace complex is the most impressive example of 19th-century Khmer architecture in all of Cambodia. The Palace has been the home of Cambodia’s royal family since 1866. Amongst its highlights are the Silver Pagoda, Throne Hall and the imposing Emerald Buddha. Built in 1373, the 27-metre-high Wat Phnom is the most important Buddhist temple in Phnom Penh and houses a number of perfectly preserved religious columns or stupas in its ornamental gardens. The buildings of the French colonial period are well worth a visit, in particular the elegant Hotel Le Royal. For some bargain hunting head to the Art Deco-designed Phsar Thom Thmei indoor market, reputedly the largest in all of Asia.
Anything else?
Far from concealing their horrific recent history, Cambodians are determined to learn from the past. The communist Khmer Rouge regime of the late 70’s, under the leadership of Pol Pot, committed mass genocide of its own people with experts estimating over two million deaths. Guided tours of the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, once the notorious S-21 Security Prison, offer a harrowing insight into the workings of this terrible period. Here, tens of thousands of people were tortured and murdered on a daily basis. As a permanent reminder of the atrocity, tall glass columns full of victims’ skulls are positioned throughout the complex. A visit here will shake you to your very core.
Anything to avoid?
If you have the inclination to partake in recreational drug usage, then think again. In recent years, a number of tourists have overdosed on what they innocently thought was cocaine. In fact, unscrupulous Cambodian drug dealers regularly supply high-grade heroin as a substitute to unsuspecting customers. As it’s produced locally, the cheap heroin guarantees these low-life operators a higher profit margin.
What should I bring home?
For a high-quality gift, look no further than fair-trade Cambodian wood carvings. These are available from approved craft centres and come in a range of styles. Carvings of deities from the classic Angkor period are amongst the most beautiful. To make a difference, donate to the Cambodian Trust which assists in the clearing of landmines and provides support to victims. Experts estimate that up to six million landmines laid during the Vietnam conflict are still scattered throughout the Cambodian countryside, killing up to 35 people a month.
When should I go?
As Cambodia is situated in the Tropics it experiences the full wrath of the monsoon rainy season. To avoid the stifling sticky heat and daily downpours, best visit between November and February when the climate is both dry and temperatures mild. If energy-sapping humidity and high temperatures aren’t your thing, avoid July and August like the plague.
What’s my challenge?
Immerse yourself in the daily bustle of Phnom Penh’s charming metropolis. Engage with the locals who’re only too happy to assist you in any way possible. Sample the delights of a Khmer curry washed down with local beer. Pay a visit to one of the city’s many Buddhist temples where monks chat openly about monastic life and practice their English!
What’s the currency?
The local currency is the Riel KHR.
Something to remember...
Cambodia has suffered some of the worst atrocities visited on any nation in recent history. The Khmer Rouge regime murdered over a third of the country’s population between 1975 and 1979. Their cruel legacy endures today due to the millions of landmines laid during the period. Despite all this, Cambodians are determined to forge a better future. They will speak openly about the past and are eager to promote the new, welcoming face of their proud nation.