12 Step Planet: Poznan

Where exactly is it?
The ‘birthplace of the Polish nation’ is the fifth largest city in Poland with a population in excess of half a million. The capital of the Wielkopolska region is situated in west-central Poland, along the banks of the Warta River. The German border lies 130km west and the capital Warsaw is 270km east.

How do I get there?
Ryanair operates a direct service from Dublin to Poznan five times a week. However, there are other cost-effective ways to get to the city where Ireland will play Croatia and Italy this June. One option is to fly direct to Berlin and catch a train. It’ll take about three hours and the overland ticket costs around a measly 20 quid!
What language do they speak?
Polish of course! Poznanians speak a distinctive dialect of their notoriously complex native language. Mercifully, English is widely spoken by the city’s younger citizens.

What’s the currency?
The local currency is the Zloty.

What is the local beer like?
There is plenty of fine local beer to sample in Poland’s spiritual birthplace. Poles especially love their lager. There are plenty of brews to choose from. Tyksie is a brand widely available in Ireland and in 2010 was officially Europe’s best-selling beer! Warka and Okocim are other extremely popular and widely available offerings. Locals are understandably loyal to their native city’s famous Lech brewery, which operates excellent tours of the production facility. The Brovaria Hotel on Stary Rynek St. is home to an award-winning microbrewery, specialising in offbeat brews such as honey beer! It’s well worth a visit...

Other drinks?
Poland is the fourth largest consumer of vodka in the world! There are hundreds of distilleries scattered throughout the country. Mead, a traditional tipple produced from fermented honey, is also popular amongst the older generation. Nalewka is the name given to fruit liqueurs, which are widely available and come in a myriad of flavours. Blackberry, apricot and quince are amongst the varieties and spices are often added for extra flavour. Many older Poles believe that a glass of nalewka is a cure for almost any ailment!

What is the transport like?
This fair trade city is compact and very easy to navigate. An extensive network of trams, 20 lines in total, and over 50 bus routes, connect the suburbs with the historic old city. A limited number of buses operate a night service. Getting there from abroad is a breeze due to excellent road and rail connections. Poznan is a stop on the Berlin to Moscow train route and also connects to all of central Europe’s major cities by motorway. Ławica Henryk Wieniawski Airport is located only five kilometres from the old city. Taxis are plentiful and excellent value.

What’s the food like?
Poznan has one thing in common with Ireland, a love of potatoes! Travelling supporters can look forward to sampling a myriad of regional specialities based around the humble tuber. Referred to affectionately as ‘pyry’, potatoes are served up as potato cakes, skins with melted cheese and cream and jacket spuds flavoured with sauces and spices. In general, Polish cuisine or ‘Kuchnia Polska’ is wholesome and broadly similar to that of many other central European countries, with meat (beef, pork), winter vegetables and spices commonly used. Stews, cured meats and soups are staples of the Polish diet. Amongst the most popular dishes are bigos (cured kielbasa meat and cabbage stew), pierogi (fried dumplings filled with potato, sauerkraut, cheese and meat) and kotlet schabowy (pork cutlet in breadcrumbs). Soup is an extremely popular main-meal starter and cucumber, tomato and flaki (beef tripe) are three of the most well-liked varieties.

What’s the nightlife like?
Poznan has a pretty lively pub and club scene and attracts its fair share of stag and hen nights! However, there are plenty of options for late-night, L-plate free, entertainment. Jazz fans should pay a visit to the excellent Blue Note, located in Zamek in the old city. There are regular live gigs and some of Europe’s biggest names have graced its stage. The city centre also has plenty of low-key bars slightly removed from the well-trodden tourist path. Za Kulisami, a short walk from the Stary Rynek, is decorated head-to-toe with old novels and is a great place to mingle with friendly locals. Lizard King offers an eclectic mix of live gigs, primarily rock and regular themed DJ nights. The city is regarded as the home of Polish electronic music with lots of venues banging out techno, house, electronica and hip hop into the early hours. Some of the best spots are Alcatraz and the multi-roomed, atmospheric basement venue Cute. If you want to check out some local hip hop mixed with classic tracks from Public Enemy, NWA et al, then make a beeline for Club Rapport. There’s certainly no shortage of worthy watering holes!

Why should I go?
Poznan is a city bursting with activity. The old city has more than its fair share of worthy historical attractions and plenty of excellent places where you can eat, drink and dance the night away. The city’s massive student population and bustling business district guarantee an energetic atmosphere year-round and it’s also the perfect starting point for exploring Poland.
What are the touristy things to do?
Poznan, like many Polish cities, is steeped in history. From its days as a strategic stronghold during the Middle Ages and later as capital of South Prussia, through to WWII and subsequent decades under Soviet hegemony, Poznan has seen more than its fair share of political upheaval. The city’s beautiful old city square district, Stary Rynek, is a good place to begin. The area was destroyed during the Second World War, but has been painstakingly rebuilt to its former glory. The ornate Jesuit College was once the HQ of none other than Napoleon Bonaparte during his march east, and was also used by composer Frederic Chopin to perform his great works. The Renaissance-style Town Hall is home to the city’s historic museum and the nearby gothic church of Saint Stanislaus is one of the most stunning of its kind anywhere in the world. For a glimpse of Renaissance-era opulence, check-out the wonderful Gorka Palace. The city has more than its fair share of interesting museums plus a bustling theatre scene. Beer connoisseurs should book their ticket on the brewery tour. Visitors during the summer season are sure to happen upon one of the many festivals.

Anything else?
If you’re a visitor to the city in February you may catch a glimpse of a peculiar religious festival. Poznan Bible Marathon takes place across numerous churches where worshippers set about reading the entire good book in a matter of days! For a taste of Polish soccer rivalry catch a home game by local team Lech Poznan, one of Poland’s best supported sides.

Anything to avoid?
Getting mugged in Poznan! The old city area swarms with skilled pickpockets who operate in the touristy areas, especially where street performances are taking place. Apply a little common-sense and you’ll be just fine.

What should I bring home?
There are a number of open-air markets in the city stocking everything from traditional toys to cured meats. Each December, the city hosts an extensive Arts and Crafts Festival showcasing the work of hundreds of Polish cottage industries. Polish pottery and wood carvings are renowned and make for excellent gifts.

When should I go?
The summer months are alive with activity and an excellent time to see Poznan in all its glory. Aside from the bustling nightlife and sightseeing there’s also an extensive season of festivals covering everything from jazz to cabaret. Irish fans won’t want to leave!

What’s my challenge?
Get the balance right! The city’s all-night partying scene ensures that many a visitor leaves Poznan having seen little more than the old city square and endless bars. Take some time to enjoy the wonderful gothic and renaissance architecture, browse the old city markets and maybe even catch a classical music recital.

Something to remember...
Poznan has suffered harshly at the hand of oppressive regimes. During the Nazi occupation, the city’s Jewish population was exterminated and later in the war the retreating German forces mounted a rearguard action against the Red Army. The resulting Battle of Poznan left much of the old city in total ruins.