12 Step Planet : Sarajevo

Where exactly is it?
Sarajevo is the capital city of Bosnia-Herzegovina and stands at the foothills of the Dinaric Alps. It’s a relatively small capital, with a population of approximately 310,000. The city became an important strategic location for the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century and more recently was infamous as the site of the most prolonged siege during the Balkan War.
How do I get there?
Despite the relatively short distance between Dublin and Sarajevo, getting there is not as easy as you’d think! Probably the most cost-efficient route is to fly with Aer Lingus to Dubrovnik in Croatia and then pick up a hire car. You can then take in some of the breathtaking Adriatic coastline en route and an overnight break in the historic city of Mostar.
What language do they speak?
The state language is Bosnian and it is the majority language in both the city and surrounding regions. Bosnian is a variation of Serbo-Croatian. In reality, the differences between the Serbian, Croat and Bosnian dialects are minimal.
What’s the local beer like?
The most popular beer in Sarajevo is the locally brewed Sarajevsko. It’s a smooth, bitter tipple, ideal for thirst-quenching in the searing heat of the Bosnian summer! There’s also Sarajevsko Premium, a full-bodied, frothy alternative, which is recommended as an accompaniment for food.
Other drinks?
No visit to Sarajevo or anywhere in Bosnia would be complete without sampling their beloved rakia. This is a spirit made from fermented fruit and varies in strength from 40 percent to the home-produced varieties which can reach 60 percent! Rakia comes in a number of flavours, amongst them slivovica, made from plums and the grape variety lozovaca. It’s served in small tumblers and is often offered as a pre-meal apéritif.
What’s the transport like?
Sarajevo is a compact city, comprising a network of narrow streets and limited car-parking. As a result, Sarajevo is a very cycle-friendly city. It also boasts the second oldest electric tramway in the world, operational since 1885 and only preceded by San Francisco. The trans-European highway connects Sarajevo with the Adriatic coast and the Hungarian capital Budapest. The city also operates a comprehensive bus service and Sarajevo International Airport is slowly but surely attracting flights from other European capitals.
What’s the food like?
Bosnian cuisine is influenced by both Western and Eastern traditions. The Ottoman Empire held sway over Sarajevo for almost 500 years and as a result, local specialities are similar to both Turkish and Greek food. However, Austrian rule has also left its mark on Bosnian eating habits. Cevapi is a very common dish of grilled meat, served with bread, onions and sour cream. Meat and vegetable goulash is a popular dinner option and Sarma is a staple consisting of meat wrapped in cabbage leaves and served with rice. Shish Kebab and other dishes normally associated with Turkey are popular throughout Bosnia.
What’s the nightlife like?
Bosnians are very sociable and Sarajevo has a thriving bar and nightclub scene. During the hot summer months, bars serve the majority of their customers outdoors, café style and this guarantees a fantastic street atmosphere, late into the night. The price of drink is very reasonable, especially for locally produced wines and brandy! Sarajevans love their loud music and the city has a number of top-notch rock bars which stay open until the early hours. The Old Turkish quarter is always a hive of activity and boasts some of the best hostelries, many decorated in the classic Ottoman style. Smoking is still tolerated in Bosnian pubs and there doesn’t seem to be a designated ‘closing time’ on weekends! With a fairly laidback dress code and friendly approachable locals, Sarajevo is a fun and interesting city to enjoy
by night.
Why should I go?
Considering the untold damage caused by the ‘Siege of Sarajevo’ during the Balkan War, it’s amazing how far the city has come in such a short time. The three-year campaign of ethnic cleansing resulted in thousands of deaths and widespread destruction of the city centre. However, Sarajevans are famously spirited and today it’s once again a centre of regional business and industry. The city has a long and fascinating history and a diverse religious and ethnic make-up. In fact, Sarajevo was once known as the ‘Jerusalem of Europe’, with large populations of Islamic, Jewish, Orthodox and Catholic people co-existing peacefully. Bosnians are very welcoming and genial hosts. A trip to Sarajevo is culturally and historically fascinating, with the added bonus of great nightlife!
What are the touristy things
to do?
Despite extensive exterior damage due to shelling during the Balkan War, The National Museum is definitely worth a look. It gives a detailed explanation of the city’s multi-ethnic past and does so with lots of fascinating exhibitions. Sarajevo is definitely worth exploring by guided tour. Many are available and they outline the city’s historic and recent past. A highlight is the War Tunnel, built during the conflict by Bosnian soldiers defending the city. It was hand dug from the city to the airport as a connection point with the outside world. The 16th century Gazi Husrev Hammam (Public Bath) is amongst the most beautiful buildings in the city and a number of mosques from the middle-ages, particularly the Logavina are well preserved to this day. The Old Town or ‘Stari Grad’ is a great place to browse in the many trinket shops and enjoy a cold drink on a street-side café.
Anything else?
The Balkan War resulted in many terrible atrocities as neighbouring families from different ethnic backgrounds fought each other to the bitter end. The ‘Romeo and Juliet’ bridge located in the city is symbolic of the futility of war. A local couple of different ethnic backgrounds, Bosniak (Muslim) and Bosnian Serb, were fleeing the besieged city when they were killed crossing the bridge. This incident became symbolic of suffering on all sides of the conflict and a significant reference point in the healing process between divided communities.
Anything to avoid?
With so many small, modern and cosy hotels located close to the Old Town there’s no need to stay in the impersonal, multi-national monoliths on the city’s outskirts. Due to its fame as the base for foreign correspondents during the conflict, many stay at the Holiday Inn. While it’s a perfectly adequate hotel, why not experience some of the old city’s legendary hospitality first-hand? Local boutique hoteliers are only too happy to impart their hands-on knowledge and arrange everything from city tours to tables at the best restaurants.
What should I bring home?
Between the years of 1991 and 1995, thousands of Bosnian children were orphaned due to ethnic cleansing. The SOS Children’s Villages work to support these children, many now entering adulthood, with caring homes and counselling. They also work to build bridges between different ethnic communities to ensure this terrible period is never re-visited. A small donation to this amazing charity will have a lasting impact. Anyway, why anyone would want to purchase Balkan War memorabilia is beyond me!
When should I go?
Spring is probably the best time of year to visit Bosnia. Due to its inland location, it can become unbearably hot during summer, when temperatures regularly hit 40 degrees. The surrounding mountains also make Sarajevo an excellent winter destination, with plenty of ski spots within easy striking distance of the city.
What’s my challenge?
Explore possibly the most culturally diverse capital city in Europe. Learn about the city’s topsy-turvy history under Ottoman and Austrian rule and appreciate the varied architecture and cuisine on offer. Try to imagine the horror of the three-year siege and marvel at the tenacity and progressive attitude of modern-day Sarajevans. Most of all, engage with the affable locals, who are only too happy to assist you during
your stay.
What’s the currency?
The local currency is the Convertible Mark (BAM).
Something to remember...
The ethnic make-up of the Bosnian capital is very different now to pre-1991. Once famed for its cultural equality, the ravages of war saw a collapse in the Serb population from 30 to just over 10 percent. It will take some time for these wounds to properly heal, so be wary of this when entering into conversation. The person you speak to could be of Bosniak, Serb or Croat extraction and each will have a differing view of this period in their history.