12 Steps Planet: Philadelphia

Where exactly is it?
Philadelphia is the largest city in the north-eastern US state of Pennsylvania. Situated along the banks of both the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers it is the fifth most densely inhabited urban area in the United States with a population of over 1.5 million. It borders New Jersey.
How do I get there?
There are plenty of convoluted multi-stop routes from Ireland to Philadelphia. Who needs the hassle? Fly direct from Dublin to New York’s JFK with Aer Lingus. From there it’s a little over 80 miles by road to Philadelphia, PA. Rent a car or, for a truly American experience, hop on a Greyhound bus from Penn Station in Midtown Manhattan. You’ll be in Philly in a couple of hours.
What language do they speak?
English is naturally the majority language in ‘The Quaker City’. The distinct local dialect is known as ‘Philadela’. The city has large Asian and Latin American immigrant populations, with Spanish, Mandarin, Vietnamese and other languages widely spoken. There is also a significant Russian community. Arabic is spoken by the growing Middle Eastern population. Old-timers speaking their mother tongues can be heard in the long-established Polish, Ukrainian and Italian neighbourhoods.
What is the local beer like?
Pennsylvania has a long tradition of beer production, with over 70 breweries in operation. DG Yuengling and Son, in Pottsville, is the oldest operating brewery in the US and produces a range of ales, beers and lagers. However, with microbreweries and brewpubs aplenty it’s certainly worth trying out some of the lesser-known beverages. Keep an eye out for Imperial Stout, produced by the Victory Brewing Company, and, for something completely different, a pint of Selins Grove Pumpkin Ale!
Other drinks?
The rich soil of the Pennsylvanian countryside is home to some of the largest apple orchards in the US and some excellent cider! There are numerous craft cider mills around the state, where traditional methods of pressing apples and wood barrel aging are still in use. Pennsylvania’s moderate climate is also ideal for cultivating vineyards, resulting in a thriving wine industry. If you fancy yourself something of a grape connoisseur wine trail trips, bringing punters to multiple wineries, are ten-a-penny.
What is the transport like?
There are numerous ways to get around old Philly. The subway network is over 100 years old, making it the third oldest in America. The downtown and surrounding suburbia are serviced by a regional train network, trolleybus and high-speed rail transit. Philadelphia is also a key destination for Amtrak’s nationwide rail service. The international airport is one of America’s busiest and a number of interstate highways connect the downtown with the surrounding states. If you’re looking to move on, head to the Filbert Street Greyhound terminal and jump on a coach to just about anywhere!
What’s the food like?
Philadelphia has made a significant imprint on the culinary world over the past hundred years. The city’s ethnic mix contributed to the creation of a number of iconic American foods. The Philly cheesesteak is probably its best known offering, a sandwich consisting of roast beef and melted cheese on a soft roll. The sumptuous, meat and vegetable, hoagie sandwich is another classic, that has its origins in the Italian community of the city’s Hog island shipyard at the turn of the century. The Pennsylvanian Dutch first brought the soft pretzel to the Quaker City and today it’s very much a Philadelphian institution. Possibly the most far-reaching innovation to come out of Philly is soda pop, first popularised in the city over 200 years ago. Local scientists Dr. Philip Physick and John Hart invented carbonated water at the beginning of the 19th century. The rest is history...
What’s the nightlife like?
There’s much to do after dark by the banks of the Delaware River! The city’s compact so it’s easy to get from place to place. Jazz fans will head for the Northern Liberties district, music bars are largely congested in the city’s southern fringe, while the old city is the place to go for food and a late night boogie. Philadelphia has a rich musical tradition and some of the venues first made famous in bygone days are still in operation. From opera and orchestral music to jazz greats such as Dizzy Gillespie and John Coltrane, Philly has made a significant contribution to the cultural landscape of America. The celebrated Academy of Music is home to the city’s opera company; orchestra buffs should seek out a ticket for a recital at the Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts. World Café Live is an acclaimed live music venue hosting some of the world’s greatest names, while Warmdaddy’s is the home of great jazz in the city for almost 50 years. The city has a calendar full of fantastic festivals from the Philadelphia Folk Festival to the zany New Year’s Day Mummers Festival.
Why should I go?
Philadelphia is often left unexplored by visitors to America’s north-east. A short hop from its noisy neighbour New York, Philly is a wonderful, vibrant city, famed for its music, food and massive contribution to the formation of the United States of America. Having brunch in a Philly diner is quite the experience, as is sampling the diverse and lively nightlife. Philadelphia is often referred to as the ‘Birthplace of the American Nation’ and after a short walk through its historic district you’ll understand why!
What are the touristy things to do?
Philly has more attractions relating to the birth of America than any other city in the union. The constitutional walking tour, most of which is contained within the Independence National Historical Park, is a must-see. Amongst the highlights on the tour are the locations where Thomas Jefferson wrote the Declaration of Independence and the United States Constitution was drafted. Other highpoints on this journey into America’s past are a visit to the Liberty Bell, Congress Hall and First Bank of America. Fort Mifflin, located near Hog Island, was the site for a key battle during the War of Independence and was also used as a prison during the American Civil War. The Eastern State Penitentiary closed as a prison almost 40 years ago, but is a massive tourist attraction due to its fascinating past. Amongst the ESP’s most famous inmates was notorious crime boss Al Capone. Art lovers shouldn’t miss the Philadelphia Museum of Art, which houses works by Rubens and Bosch amongst others. However, the PMA is most famous as the scene of Sylvester Stallone’s lung-bursting step run in the original Rocky film! Benjamin Franklin’s Post Office, the first of its kind in the US, is also worth a trip. Franklin is one of America’s truly iconic figures, having excelled in numerous fields from science and politics to music and invention.
Anything else?
Philadelphia’s South St. is one of the city’s offbeat joys. Located in the Headhouse District, South St. is home to countless galleries, vintage shops and tattoo parlours. It’s got a vibe all of its own and is a great place to hang-out and people watch! The nearby giant mural known as the ‘Magic Gardens’ is a wonderful example of urban art.
Anything to avoid?
Unfortunately, Philadelphia is home to some of the most dangerous neighbourhoods in the US. North Philly should be given a wide berth, as it has a well-earned reputation for violent crime, robbery and murder. Abject poverty has resulted in the creation of one of America’s most notorious ghettos.
What should I bring home?
History boffins are spoilt for choice when it comes to souvenirs. The Betsy Rose House, home to the first handmade ‘stars and stripes’ is full of trinkets chronicling those critical early days of American Independence.
When should I go?
Avoid the hot summers and choking crowds and head to Philly in the spring. You’ll still be able to visit nearly all of the attractions – without the mile-long queues.
What’s my challenge?
Soak up the unique atmosphere of this most American city. From historical landmarks to great food and music, Philadelphia has certainly made its mark on American culture.
What’s the currency?
The United States Dollar (USD$)
Something to remember...
Philadelphia served as the capital of the newly formed United States from 1790-1800, while Washington DC was under construction. The story of the Quaker City is the story of the birth of the USA.