Hot Travel: Memphis

Where exactly is it?
Memphis is in the southwest of the ‘Volunteer State’ of Tennessee. The ‘Birthplace of Rock ‘n’ Roll’ has a population of over 650,000, making it the state’s biggest city. The metropolitan area has expanded considerably in recent decades, crossing into neighbouring Arkansas and Mississippi.
How do I get there?
One option is Aer Lingus to Chicago’s O’Hare Airport, connecting onwards to Memphis with Trans State Airlines. Alternatively, book Aer Lingus to Orlando, Florida and catch a two-hour flight with Delta Airlines. If time’s not pressing, why not travel by train from New York’s Penn Station with Amtrak and experience some of the vast expanse of the American interior en route?
What language do they speak?
English is the first language of the vast bulk of the city’s citizens, but its diverse ethnicity ensures that a wide variety of other tongues are also spoken on its streets. Amongst the most popular are Spanish, German, French and in recent decades there’s been an influx of Asian immigrants from Vietnam, Korea, China and Laos.
What’s the local beer like?
Tennessee is home to some of the finest craft beer producers in the United States and it’s certainly worth seeking out the state’s award-winning brews. Each October the Tennessee Beer Festival takes place in Nashville. Brews from the Volunteer State and neighbouring Arkansas, Mississippi, Alabama and further afield are showcased, along with great food and live music. Amongst the best local tipples are Boscos HopGod Ale and the fantastically named Smoky Mountain Brown Trout Stout!
Other drinks?
Tennessee is synonymous worldwide with a particular type of whiskey known as bourbon, which is made from corn and aged in casks or barrels. However, bourbon production isn’t as widespread as one might expect, with many counties in Tennessee prohibiting the sale of alcohol. The King of Tennessee bourbon whiskeys is of course, Jack Daniels, distilled in the city of Lynchburg. Ironically, Lynchburg is in Moore County, a dry county! Benjamin Prichard’s, a newcomer from Kelso, has quickly gained cult status among younger sippers.
What’s the transport like?
The Memphis Area Transit Authority operates an integrated bus and trolley service in the downtown area. There are plans to extend the trolley network to the airport and outer suburbs. Overall, Memphis is an easy city to negotiate, due to its compact layout. It’s well connected with the wider American continent and serviced by a number of Interstate highways and national routes. The most famous of these is US Route 61, connecting New Orleans with Wyoming and Minnesota. This runs parallel with the great Mississippi and is also known as the ‘Blues Highway’ due to its proximity to the heartland of the Delta blues.
The international airport is an important hub for the global cargo business and connects to all key American cities. The ‘Great River’ is also a key industrial resource and Memphis port is one of the largest in America. For a taste of opulence from a bygone era, check out the American Queen Steamboat Company, which operate tours along the Mississippi linking such historic locations as New Orleans, St. Louis and, naturally, Memphis.
What’s the food like?
Tennessee cuisine draws on the influence of the original Native Americans and the culinary traditions of the European immigrants from the 1700s onwards. The Europeans brought with them vegetable crops, which when combined with the abundance of wild game in the region gave rise to a love for stews that abides to this day.
However, modern Memphis’ gift to the culinary world is the pork barbeque and eating at one of the city’s famed rib joints is a must. Slow-cooked in pits with added spices, restaurants such as Leonard’s and Payne’s have become state institutions, drawing crowds from across the south to sample their fayre. Ribs are hugely popular, but it’s the pulled pork sandwich that’s become the city’s staple. If ‘soul food’ is good enough for Elvis, it sure as hell’s good enough for me!
What’s the nightlife like?
With its reputation as the birthplace of rock ‘n’ roll and connection to the blues and soul, it’s not surprising that Memphis can boast a serious amount of bars and clubs. The touristy Beale Street area is the focal point for much of the revelry with countless dive bars, music venues and sports joints. Everything is located either on its well-lit thoroughfare or on one of the adjoining streets. One of the city’s most famous drinking haunts is the Flying Saucer Draught Emporium, which serves over 75 beers on tap! However, there are hidden gems everywhere and, depending on whether you’re seeking out a live rockabilly band or a slice of old-time country, it’s best to ask a local, who are only too happy to oblige.
For a taste of the All-American sports bar, head to Fargo’s where patrons roar their approval for American football, baseball or basketball teams, depending on the time of year. The only city’s only major sports franchise is Memphis Grizzlies who made it through last year to the NBA Conference Finals. The renowned Rum Boogie Café is worth a visit and offers up the best in local bands and high-quality tribute acts. Bourbon, great music and friendly natives... what more could you ask for?
Why should I go?
For anyone with an interest in the roots of Americana, Memphis has it all! The city perched along the Great River is steeped in the storied history of the American South, from the arrival of the first European settlers, through the bloody Civil War, Prohibition and the genesis of modern America. Whether it’s the blues, sour mash or rib joints, Memphis is the quintessential southern metropolis.
What are the touristy things to do?
There’s plenty to see in Memphis,and top of the list for music lovers is the pilgrimage to the iconic Sun Studios on Union Avenue. Opened by Sam Philips in 1950, it was in this modest building that many of the greatest names in rock ‘n’ roll recorded their most iconic works, among them Howlin’ Wolf, BB King, Elvis, Johnny Cash and Jerry Lee Lewis. Proceeding from the sublime to the ridiculous, no trip to Memphis is complete without a visit to Graceland, the garish home of The King and his final resting place. His collection of cars and planes is also housed on the sprawling estate.
The National Civil Rights Museum is a sobering reminder of the region’s all-too-recent race struggles, which still cast a shadow, especially in the neighbouring state of Mississippi. The museum is housed in the Lorraine Motel, where on April 4th 1968, a day after his famous “I’ve been to a mountaintop” speech, Dr. Martin Luther King was assassinated on the motel’s balcony. The many excellent permanent exhibits include a history of race struggle in America from the days of slavery right up to the movement’s defining moments such as the March on Washington and the Montgomery Bus Boycott. It’s simply a must.
Anything else?
One of the most unusual tourist attractions anywhere in the world takes place in the lobby of the Peabody Hotel. Each day at 11am the Peabody Ducks, a group of five mallards, led by a ‘master’ make their way from the hotel’s rooftop to the lobby to the tune of John Philip Sousa’s ‘King Cotton March’. The red carpet is rolled out and the ducks complete the return journey at 5pm, back to their rooftop abode. Ridiculously magnificent!
Anything to avoid?
Amidst all the good-vibes of downtown Memphis lurks that all-too-common buzz-killer that are pickpockets! Avoid showcasing your wallet and don’t have it peaking invitingly out of your back pocket!
What should I bring home?
There’s plenty of variety when it comes to purchasing gifts. How about some authentic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia from storied Sun Studios? They stock an interesting selection of vinyl records, including original 45s at some very tasty prices. If you’re not overly flush they also stock prints of original ’50s posters featuring the Million Dollar Quartet of Cash, Presley, Perkins and Lewis.
When should I go?
Any time of year is the right time to visit Memphis. The hottest months are July and August when things can get a little stifling. The largest crowds and highest prices are guaranteed during the high seasons of March to June and September to November. For a taste of the city in full festival swing arrive in May to experience the Beale Street Music Festival and the World Barbeque Cooking Championships. For serious fans of The King, it has to be August for Elvis Week.
What’s my challenge?
Immerse yourself in a city steeped in musical history and the simple pleasures of barbequed food. Wander the streets where Elvis, Jerry Lee and Johnny Cash first got their big-break and take five over a mouth-watering pulled pork sandwich. Memphis is a place where the senses are generously indulged…
What’s the currency?
The United States Dollar (USD$)
Something to remember...
Shortly after the American Civil War, Memphis was devastated by an epidemic of yellow fever, wiping out a sizeable percentage of the city’s fledgling population. Thousands also fled, but over the next decade the city embarked on the instillation of a modern sewage and artesian well system, with the aim of safeguarding Memphis for future generations.