Located just off Dublin’s main thoroughfare of O’Connell Street, and not far from Dublin Port, Talbot Street was always a hub for people of the sea. Sailors, fresh off their journeys across the Irish Sea, and dockers congregated there, eating, drinking and sleeping in the area’s many hostelries. They would even pray at the Welsh language church, which is now a graffiti-covered internet cafe.

Long the jewel of Talbot Street’s dining scene, Le Bon Crubeen has fully embraced the street’s maritime tradition.

“We have recently introduced lobsters,” explains manager Mark Adams. They join a menu already packed full of fishy delights: Grilled Atlantic stone bass; Goatsbridge rainbow trout fillet; smoked haddock; cod; salmon chowder and octopus; and clams and chorizo – all of which will delight any pescetarian. Shellfish aficionados, meanwhile, will delight in the Achill Island oysters on the half-shell.

Le Bon Crubeen opened almost ten years ago, and its focus has always been on providing a sophisticated take on classic Irish dishes. “The idea was to take the Irish, with crubeens, and mix it with the French – Le Bon – for a European twist,” says Adams.

It’s an approach that has captured the hearts of Dublin’s dining public – among them, show-goers at the nearby Abbey and Gate theatres. Le Bon Crubeen do as pre-theatre menu and at €24.95 for a three-course meal, it’s easy to see why it’s a huge hit, Being able to serve wonderful food at such great value prices is something Adams is proud of.

“Our prices work,” he says. “In southside restaurants, the prices can change and go up depending on how the economy’s doing. So, prices on the southside have been going up consistently. We haven’t increased prices at all, this side of the river, and I think that’s important. It’s vital that people can come in and don’t feel they’re being cheated.”

Maintaining this commitment to fantastic food at great prices is what keeps their regulars coming back to the restaurant. The brilliant service also encourages loyalty.

“We’ve got relaxed style,” says Adams. “It’s very friendly: we talk people through the menu. This is casual dining – we’re not fine dining. We’re smart casual.”

That distinction is an important one – it’s quality food and quality service, but still in touch with the street-wise heritage of Talbot Street. Adams believes that the area has a brilliant future.

“With the Luas now crossing over,” he notes, “it makes it much easier for people who were reluctant to come because it was maybe seen as an awkward spot. Getting here is not a big deal now.”

There is more happening nearby as well.

“We get the theatre crowd,” says Adams, “as well as people going to concerts in 3Arena. And also anything in Croke Park.”

The restaurant is close to the IFSC and Convention Centre too. Staying in touch with local food producers is important to Le Bon Crubeen, as chef Luis Casero explains.

“It’s all Irish,” he says. “We try to get as much as we can locally, and we get fresh fish in every day. Also we have shellfish coming from Achill Island.”

In a city that at times can seem enthralled by waves of culinary trends – burritos, donuts and whatever you’re having yourself – Le Bon Crubeen is an oasis of consistency and commitment to the classics.

“We’re not overly fancy,” says Adams. “We run specials every day, but we’re certainly not trying to be a new fad or a new anything. If we were to do something funky and cool with dry ice and whatnot, I don’t think it would necessarily work.”

Le Bon Crubeen: the good ship sails on...